SteelSeries for me as well. Simple, enough buttons to do the job, good size and shape. I don't need a calculator strapped to the side.
Comment has been collapsed.
Doesn't seem to have features that OP is looking for but this is right up my alley :]
Comment has been collapsed.
Steelseries only offers a 1 year warranty on their mice if you're in U.S. or Asia and 2 years if you're in EU. I'm in U.S. and a 1 year warranty is bad. It tells me they don't have confidence in their products. At least Logitech mice have at least a 2 year warranty which I've had to use a few times. (Although using Visa/Mastercard to buy will give free 1 year extended warranty and American Express gives 2 years)
Comment has been collapsed.
I don't know where you're from, but you can buy it on ebay ->
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Logitech-MX-Revolution-Laser-Mouse-Logitech-MX-Revolution-Bluetooth-Mouse-/371488161788
It's from germany, you have to pay 149 Euro e.g. via paypal and the shipping cost is free world wide.
Maybe that's ok for you? You said 360 bucks are to much..
Edit:
or you try your MX700 as a used one (second-grade-goods)
https://www.ebay.de/p/Logitech-Gaming-G700-910-001761-Funk-Maus/98640739?iid=292852250489&chn=ps
Comment has been collapsed.
Looks like the giveaway not for me but thanks anyway :)
About your mouse, why don't you fix it?
I had the exact same problem with my g300s but i fixed it this way and using it for a year without a problem.
It is not hard to do either. It took 20-30 min of mine. (if i can remember correctly)
Comment has been collapsed.
I saw a similar solution which involved sticking tape on the bottom of the plastic lid of the button that presses the switch, so that it presses more firmly. I have done this procedure several times now but the problem returned every time after a few weeks which started to get annoying, also I had to find replacements for my teflon mouse feet for each procedure.
That said, I have never attempted opening the box of the switch itself and bending the copper as described in your link. I will have to try that when I have some time!
Comment has been collapsed.
Hmm, i never tried your solution so i can't say something about it, but i did try mine and it worked pretty well until now (like i said, its been a year) :D
Actually, i see from another forum, putting here a piece of paper with tape may work too (with the solution). You can try it as well.
(Oh, i just realized that is what you tried :D My english.exe stopped, sorry :)
(Just make sure you don't lose screws :D Put them in a small box while opening. And don't be harsh, these little black boxes are kinda hard to open, do it slowly and you should be good to go)
Comment has been collapsed.
Instead of trying to repair the switches, why don't you replace them? It's a very easy task to do with a cheap soldering iron. You need to buy the same (OMRON) switches.
Comment has been collapsed.
I just thought something from orono's suggestion. You can change your left click's button with other unused button's switch as well. (for example a macro button that you use rarely)
Comment has been collapsed.
Bump. Let us know what mouse you choose in the end. I'm also interested in buying one.
Comment has been collapsed.
I've used Logitech G5 (first edition, color - rust and steel) for more then 12 years. But it died three months ago -_-
I've tried all modern Logitech G mice, but they are too small and light for me.
Finally I've bought Steelseries Rival 300S
https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-300s
It's big, doesn't have those unnecessary buttons and very comfortable.
The best solution - find an eSports store nearby. Because usually the sell lots of mice and you can try them all before buying
Comment has been collapsed.
Buy the durable one. It's really annoying that mouse getting weird in a short time.
Comment has been collapsed.
I'm still using an ancient Microsoft WMO and I will be sad when I have to replace it. I have already had to cut the wire a couple times to fix broken spots.
If you consider the mouse dead and don't mind the possibility of damaging it more, you can try fixing it. On the Microsoft mouse I am currently using, I had some trouble with it not registering clicks or releasing the click while I was still holding it down, so I opened it up, pushed the button in, and poured some rubbing alcohol into the switch. I mashed on the button for a while, rinsed it with some more alcohol to hopefully clean it out, and then let it dry for a long time. That fixed the issues I was having.
On a previous mouse I have opened up the little switches inside, took them apart and sanded the contacts to make them work again. Also have bent the contacts to adjust the click pressure. These switches are very tiny though and the tabs are easily broken trying to get the switch open. If you break the tabs and need to glue the switch back together, don't use something like super glue or crazy glue. I tried that once and the fumes from the glue settled on or corroded the copper pieces inside and made them not work. I had to open it up and sand them all over again.
Comment has been collapsed.
I tried a different method of spraying compressed air into the switches to blow out the dust, but that was not very effective. JFMugen posted a link above with a similar procedure as the one you described. I will attempt this as soon as I can get around to it.
Comment has been collapsed.
I don't think the issue is dust, I think the copper contacts inside the switches are slowly getting corroded over the years. With my old mouse, I opened the little switches and sanded the contacts. I don't remember why I decided to try alcohol on this mouse. I think it was a different type of switch that I couldn't easily get open and didn't want to destroy since the issue wasn't bad.
If it is due to the copper contacts getting corroded, it may be worth trying to put a solution of vinegar and salt into the switches. I have no idea if it will harm anything, but people clean corrosion off copper pennies with vinegar and salt. Maybe try filling them with that and then after a little while, rinse it out with alcohol a few times and let it evaporate. You might want to use something to hold the button down on the switch to keep it open so the alcohol can evaporate from the inside.
Comment has been collapsed.
If the button still feels and sounds like it's clicking pretty good, it may not need the contacts bent, it may just be corroded. On the Microsoft mouse I am using now, it's using smaller switches that can't be opened (picture below), which is why I just used alcohol last time. That lasted for about a year and then started acting up again about a month ago. Since you posted this thread, my left click started getting really annoying again and was causing trouble with double clicking when I don't want to and releasing when I am trying to drag things, so I just decided to clean it again.
This time I decided to try using a vinegar and salt solution since it is supposed to clean the oxidation off copper really quickly. I took the mouse apart and mixed a 1/4 teaspoon of salt into 1/2 an ounce of white vinegar. I have some small needles that I file the sharp tips off of to use for different things. I used that and a tiny screwdriver that fits inside the plunger part of the switch to push it down.
I sucked up some of the vinegar solution, pushed the switch down to open it, and squirted the vinegar in. If you click the switch a bunch of times, the liquid will seep down into the switch and you can do it again until its full. I pushed the switch up and down for about 2 minutes and then tried to get as much of the vinegar out by flipping it over and pushing it open with some toilet paper a few times till it was not pulling anymore out.
I rinsed the needle out with water, filled it with alcohol, and filled the switch again just like I did with the vinegar. I then drained it and filled again to try and remove as much of the vinegar as possible. I clicked the switch a bunch again to mix everything and make sure it gets clean. Then I drained it and pulled as much out again with the paper.
Even though I used 90% alcohol, I didn't want to try and keep the switch open and wait for it to dry. I got as much of the alcohol out of the needle as possible and then sucked air in and out to completely dry it. I then filled the needle with air, held the switch open with the screwdriver, stuck the needle as far into the switch as it would go and forced the air into it quickly. This blew out a surprising amount of alcohol. I repeated this about 5 or 6 times until it was dry.
I put it back together and it seems to be working perfectly. It probably took about 45 minutes and over half that time was taking apart and putting back together the mouse.
It's worth a shot if you want to try it. This method is a lot easier and safer than opening the tiny switch. Or, if you solder, you can probably find really cheap replacement switches online.
Comment has been collapsed.
I have a Quilla-X5 mouse , I got it from a friend (second hand) what 4 years ago and the mouse is still very good :)
The previous mouse I had broke eventually due to the mouse wheel getting dirty and it just broke the rubber off and couldn't work eventually XD , the Quilla-X5 mouse has 2 side buttons and a modifiable color system which makes it my favorite.
I wouldn't go for any of the mice you shared as they are just normal mice without any coolness to it... just my opinion. My shit needs to glow !!! Haha.
Here is a amazon link to the product (although you can't buy it)
https://www.amazon.ca/Armaggeddon-Aquila-X5-Optical-Gaming/dp/B00NOI0ZBE
Comment has been collapsed.
I'm buying Logitech G600 every year at blackfriday. If you are up to mouse with cable you should consider it. Are you using mouse with palm grip ? if the answer is yes, 3rd button on mouse is quite effective, also these 12 buttons at the left side will works amazing with macros (gaming or multimedia for windows) and really cheap on amazon like 35 bucks. But if you don't want cable mouse you can go with G602 or G903. (But i still recommend G600)
Comment has been collapsed.
Bump for cool GA and useful thread. I still use Logitech MX518, it's not so expensive and it's excellent for all purposes.
Comment has been collapsed.
My trusty beloved Logitech G700 that I bought in 2013 is on its last legs. The left and right buttons don't register as well at times, and it's a bit of a pain when dragging and dropping and also in some games. This is the best mouse I have ever owned: it has 13 fully programmable and easy to reach buttons, 5 different user profiles, seamless dpi settings that are changable on the fly, wired and wireless operation with rechargable user replaceable Enerloop battery and a dual mode scroll wheel that can be changed from click-to-click to free spin hyperfast scroll. This is the awesome wheel that Logitech first introduced with the MX Revolution in 2007 which I had prior to this model and I simply cannot live without now. Seriously, there's no going back after using this amazing wheel. I would buy the G700 again in a heartbeat, the only problem is it has since been discontinued and Amazon now carries it for a cool 350 bucks. As much as I love this mouse, my readiness (and wallet) has limits.
My problem is I don't know how I should replace the G700. An obvious choice would probably be Logitech's current top of the line productivity mouse, the MX Master 2S. This mouse has the same ergonomic shape as the G700 and also has that awesome dual mode wheel, but it has less buttons than the latter. I've come to really like my multitude of buttons, which are not only great for gaming but also for productivity tasks like photo and video editing. So I'm not sure if I would be happy with the MX Master.
On the other hand, there are the Logitech G Series mice. Most of these seem to have lots of programmable buttons, but I don't think they have that amazing wheel I talked about earlier. (Or do they? Does anybody know for sure? The website doesn't really say). They also don't seem to have that ergonomic shape I am so fond of that started with the MX Revolution. I don't know why Logitech doesn't make them anymore like they used to and combine the features I want, just like in the G700.
Do you have any advice on what mouse I should get? I would like a wireless mouse if possible with a lot of programmable buttons, an ergonomic shape that fits the hand (it does not need to be ambidextrous, right hand is fine) and that dual mode scroll wheel (or someting of equivalence) that I keep going on about. GIBAWAYBonus points if it looks halfway sensible and doesn't scream PROGAMERRGB2DAMAX!!!1! in its design. I've only used Logitech mice since 1997 (each one has lasted me years), but I am willing to switch for the right mouse.
UPDATE
I have made my choice: After much consideration I decided to go for the Logitech G502 Hero. I had to sacrifice the wireless capability, but apart from that the mouse has everything I want (remember the wheel?) and although I have yet to properly test it in games, I like how it feels and functions in Windows. Some people suggested I fix the switches in my G700 and I might just do that. For now it's relegated to office duty and has replaced my generic no name piece of crap mouse there, so that's cool. Thanks to everyone who chimed in with their comments, I have read every one, even if I didn't reply to them all. Also, here's a fun list!
Comment has been collapsed.