how did you get 12 gb of ram and I don't think ddr 3 should work with that mobo in the first place.
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2x2 probably wouldn't work with a new 8. Their timings are different, you'd get a blue screen every 10 minutes.
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I'm not sure what you mean by already having 4GB of ram but the way it appears is that you are trying to mix and match ram and adding it together? That is a bad idea for several reasons. Older Ram might not be compatible with your board or not even socket. Ram modules are tested to work in the kits they come in at the frequency it is rated for. Mixing and matching even if it does work is bad for stability.
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12 GB RAM is kinda weird. why not get 16 gigs? most modern games demand 8 gigs and recommend 16 anyways, so you might consider getting those.
Also, you might consider getting the 6600K instead as it has a higher clock speed and offers overclocking ability.
And I would consider getting a 500GB instead as those offer more value per GB than 250 GB models. You could install multiplayer games on it, then which would cut down on loading times significantly.
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You selected a "Z" motherboard with a "non-K" CPU.
"Z" motherboards are meant for overclock, which can only be done with "K" CPUs.
Ditch the "Z" motherboard for a "H" one, and with the extra money you would be able to up the RAM to 16GB, and maybe even get a 500GB SSD, or a bigger HDD.
Also, as mentioned, these new motherboards only support DDR4 RAM.
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I would go for a ddr4 board instead, more future proof.
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get 16 GBs DDR4 RAM at least, my advice wud be Gskill, one of the bests! if u don't plan to do OC, why get a Z170 Mainboard? and your VGA wud be good for 1080p gaming for now, and buy a at least a 500-600 watt PSU
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You need one of the rebrands. Luckily one of the companies you mentioned, carry Super Flower units: the EVGA SuperNova G2/P2/T2 line is a series or rebranded Super Flower units. I went a little overboard with mine (750 Watts in a single-GPU rig), but as a plus side, I'm yet to ever hear its fan turn on… =D
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Change the motherboard to the Z170 Extreme3 or Extreme4 and get a DDR4 RAM. The Skylake platform was designed with DDR4 RAM in mind, it just offers backward compatibility for extreme circumstances.
Or, to save money, get a H170 board. Z170 is needed to overclock, H170 is more than enough for any single or dual GPU build (although it may be a little slim with an M.2 SSD added as well).
That 12 GB sounds like 3×4 GB sticks. Unless you are carrying it over, don't use them, since it will put the motherboard into single-channel mode automatically. If you are buying them new (and for DDR4, you most likely will), get 2×4 or 2×8.
For CPU, either get the 6600K to overclock or just stick to the 6500 to save money. The difference between the multiplier-locked 6500 and 6600 is next to nothing in performance, but way too much in price.
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Thanks a lot for the comment.
I have 2X2GB DDR3 at the moment so I planned to add 8GB or 2x8GB. I am not sure what the DDR4 will add and I wouldn't be able to use the old DDR3. But maybe you're right I should get a motherboard with DDR4 slots with the skylake processor.
I'll check the price difference between 6500 and 6600
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Don't mix different RAM sticks. It has become really detrimental to performance for like 10-13 years now. Not to mention that you need to find something which has the exact same characteristics, and that is not as easy as it sounds when it comes to old RAM sticks.
The price difference should be anywhere from ~12 to 20 USD, depending on where you live and where you shop. In gaming perspective, the difference is zero, in high-performance computing, it is around 8%. Unless you do tasks where you regularly load to CPU to 90%+, the 6600 will carry no advantages, only disadvantages (higher base temperature and power consumption).
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The only substantial difference is that the Gigabyte one has an M.2 socket, whereas the ASrock one would need an adapter PCIE card to install an M.2 drive. On the other hand, the ASRock one supports M.2 drives through the PCIE bus as boot disks by default.
Also, the ASRock one is a bit smaller, which can be good in some cases for better cable management or just to being able to put stuff somewhere.
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I don't really want to be that guy but have you considered just using the Logicalincrements build guide and modifying based on prices?
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CPU: Intel Core i5-6500
Cooler: EKL Alpenföhn Ben Nevis
Mainboard: ASRock H170A-X1/3.1
Ram: Kingston HyperX Fury DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR4-2133
PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 10-CM 500W
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB
SSD: Crucial MX200 250GB
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G
you dont need a Z board without a K Processor
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wtf are you talking?
My Specs:
Intel Core i5-4570 Box, LGA1150
Be Quiet Pure Rock Tower Cooler
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
Gigabyte B85-HD3, ATX, Sockel 1150
Samsung EVO 840 250GB
BitFenix Merc Alpha
3x Be Quiet Pure Wings 2
be quiet! PURE POWER L8 400W
16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Series DDR3-1600, CL9 (4x4GB)
LG GH24NS bare schwarz
Seagate Barracuda 7200 1000GB, SATA 6Gb/s
Seagate Barracuda 7200 3000GB, SATA 6Gb/s
My Power consumption for the Complete PC are:
Idle 40 Watt
Desktop/Browser 56-60 Watt
aida64 stresstest 220-240 watt
furmark 1080p preset 260-280 watt
with a Powertarget for my GPU of 112% and overclocking its 300 Watt with small jumps to 310 Watt by Furmark
i tested it myself with a Energy Monitor from Voltcraft
look the link, with an overclocked Intel Core i7-5960X is the complete system not drawing more than 288 watt
and you wanna tell him to take 600 watt?
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2016/07/29/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gaming-x-review/10
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All (physical) PC shops try to sell you low-grade PSUs no-brand Chinese firecrackers rated 1337W, that blow up if you try to push them over 200W because they have only the most basic protections.
Source: experience (fried motherboard during a thunderstorm 10 years ago).
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"Bad" is quite an understatement! Out of all "PSUs" I've ever seen in physical stores, there never was a brand I could recognize.
And I'm highly knowledgeable about hardware manufacturers (both the good ones and the bad ones).
By the way, I was talking about my old Sempron-based PC, I got somewhat lucky with the replacement, that brand (Tecnoware) seems to be at least decent (no issues in 10 years, although that PC needs 200W at most, while the PSU is rated 500W).
For the future, I'll surely shop online, there's a much wider range of parts, as well as more reputable brands.
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B is the bad low budget Chipset
H is the good Chipset without Overclocking
Z is the Full builded Chipset for Overclocking
X is the Best Chipset for enthusiast
you should take minimum a H Chipset
the asrock is a good Low Price Mainboard, of course you can take another one, but H170 should be in the name
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Z170-H170-H110-B170-Q150-Q170---What-is-the-Difference-635/
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"for business" is in the company language just low low budget product for high quantity
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That's good. I like the dual fan setup on GPUs, I have one myself. They're so much quieter than those leaf blower fans. I have an EVGA GTX 970, and it doesn't even turn on the fans until it reaches a certain temp, so my system is barely audible until I fire up a game, and even then it's not that loud.
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DDR3? i really recommend moving to DDR4, even if its just 8GB, it will run better, and why are you going for a Z Motheboard if you dont have a K processor? any special reason?, the Z170 is only worth it if you are going to use a K processor, otherwise a H170 or B150 will do the job as good as that Z170.
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Hey!
I plan to build a new PC with these components:
Do you have any advice or comment?
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