The last one is the cooler? Make sure it is a good one I would recommend researching about how to install Windows 10, that's 100€ you gonna save there. I have my doubts on the PSU (the one that says 750W) since I never had that build in my hand.
The rest, perfection. I see NVME SSD, which is one of the fastest that you can get, I would buy 1TB of it, but 500gb also do the work.
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The power supply should be good.
https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/05/08/corsair-rm750x-2018-750w-power-supply/6/
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RM 2018 PSUs are Tier A on linustechtips. Can't get much better than that.
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I would recommend researching about how to install Windows 10, that's 100€ you gonna save there
Can you elaborate? :)
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You can get a Windows 10 OEM Key for €6 on the likes of Amazon FYI.
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You can buy Win 10 OEM key for few bucks on allegro. And then install it on your own.
You don't even need to know stuff about PCs, as installation is step-by step. Only thing is to change boot from drive to pendrive, so you can install OS.
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Dark Rock 4 Pro by Be Quiet is top 3 air cooling solutions. PSU is perfect too...
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Go for M.2 NVMe SSD like Corsair Force MP510 or Patriot Viper VPN100.
Is cheaper than samsung and has better IOPS and performs better on large and small files.
You can research this yourself for example here. The 4KB speeds are what interesting.
Also aim for the 1TB models, they are about 50bucks more expensive but perform way better than the 500GB ones.
You're welcome.
BTW be Quiet! PSUs are slightly cheaper and are a little less noisy, hit that up too.
Oh and your mainboard is unnecessarily expensive af.
You can dump the 1x PCIe4.0 and save about 100 bucks because let's take the facts: your cpu is literally the only part out there that can support PCIe4.0 but there are no other products that can do that like videocards, memory, ssds.....
And by the time those components are produced there will be way cheaper mainboards having PCIe4.0 support.
You literally are throwing about 100 bucks away there for something that you can't possibly utilize at least for 1-2 years until all other components are made for PCIe4.0
be Quiet! cpu cooling is very good but you might look up Noctua NH-D15.
Looks ugly but has the best price for performance which is better than the be quiet! cooler you have in your cart
And a tip for the PSU itself:
your total power needed (+50W reserve) should be about 75% of what your PSU can supply to make it work the most efficient.
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Thank you for such a great post! I'll do a little research based on your advices :)
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my pleasure :)
oh if you should go for a NVMe SSD that has a passive cooler on it like the viper patriot vpn100 make sure the m.2 slot is below your cpu socket and NOT below your videocard socket. It won't fit in there for obvious reasons (will block the videocard)
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nevermind, it has the m.2 socket below the cpu socket :)
don't forget if you buy a non-cooled nvme ssd and your mainboard has a heatshield that goes on top of it - do NOT remove the paperish label on the ssd for better cooling otherwise you will lose your warranty!!
and hit up the asus prime x470-pro it's way cheaper and support up to ddr4-3466
the overpriced prime x570-pro only supports up to ddr4-2666
remember your cpu supports up to ddr4-3200, so if you are into it and know how to do, you can "clock down" your memory speed to get better timings.
now that i have a proper look on your memory I can suggest you following because the one you have has bad timings (cl16 19-19-39):
- G.Skill Flare X DIMM 32 GB DDR4-3200 Quad-Kit (search for this: F4-3200C14Q-32GFX) <- if you will to ditch the rgb because a few fancy lights on it will cost you more
- G.Skill Trident Z RGB DIMM 32 GB DDR4-3200 Quad-Kit (search for this: F4-3200C14Q-32GTZR) <- has RGB on it but costs almost 50 bucks more
both of those memory have a clock that fits your processors needs and have very good (low) timings (cl14 14-14-34).
In case you will need higher clocks on your memory you can still squeeze some out of those for giving up a little timing performance.
also your mainboard has 4 memory slots you should occupy all of them. Ryzen processors really like multi channeling (minimum dual channel!). Think of it like a highway: 2 modules mean 2 lanes -> 1 leading to your destination and 1 back. If you stick in 4 modules it will be 2 lanes on each side - more bandwith your data can go through and therefore will be faster and easier for the cpu to pull needed information out of there
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Not all "previous gen" MOBOs support Ryzen 3xxx out of the box. Like I plan to buy MSI B450 + 3600 and I will need to flash bios from pendrive (most probably) to make MOBO support CPU.
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that's the first thing I do because those motherboards are laying around for months even years before a customer gets them.
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What's the refresh rate and resolution of your monitor?
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Actually I don't know yet, I have laptop right now and I need to buy monitor too.
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You should settle on a monitor first.
It's important to know on what resolution you're going to run your future config. For example, if you stay on 1080p that 2080S would be total overkill (with a few exceptions).
I'm no designer but i believe IPS screen is what you need.
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Yes IPS is what he needs but also you should keep in mind that he is a graphic designer so the 2080 isnt overkill for his job.
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dudes unless you use fkin TVs as a "monitor" for your pc full hd is fine for everything.
resolution is bs starting from 2k if you have a bottle neck on your monitor with the refresh rate
144Hz up to 27 inch monitors are the best and most money saving way for a pc gamer that sits infront of his pc to play.
of course higher resolution and refresh rate is better but at some point you won't notice any difference betweek 1k and 4k or 100Hz or 200Hz. And if you think you do I dare you to make the experiment shown in the video yourself.
Let someone set up 2-3 gaming setups with different Monitors and try to label them without knowing which is which.
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How on earth can you not notice the difference between 4k and 1080p? I mean it's one of the first things I noticed when I upgraded that I have 4x the space I used to. 1080p is fine for phones and even there it's a bit little.
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If you are refering to the space on your windows desktop that's not relevant.
Even in games maybe your hud is a little smaller but graphicsvise there is not much of a difference.
It's the same bs people go for with videocards. They have like 10 fps more on a game but pay shit tons of more money for those sloppy 10 fps difference. It's anything but in relation to each other.
A little less performance is worth a little more money and not like 200 bucks
tl;dr - screw 4k and spend the money on a monitor that has high refresh rates
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How exactly is it not relevant? Obviously you have never done anything other than play FPS on your computer. Yes who cares about FPS when you can have actual colors and tons of space for your graphical work.
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yeah right because with non 4k hardware you get less colors - makes sense.
listen if you got a rich daddy it's okay, go for 4k if you really believe it is worlds apart from 2k or 1k
I'm saying you spent shit tons of money more for not as much more performance. Cost for performance is anything but in relation.
you can buy a lamborghini too for 1k but you can also get something for 300k that beats the stupid lamborghini
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How are resolution and colors related? The point was to illustrate that FPS games only care about Hz while graphical work only cares about resolution and colors. Sorry to disappoint you but I bought both my 4k monitor and my 4k TV on my own and could never go back to fitting only a tiny window on the screen, that's what phones are for. You also spend shit tons more on extra Hz that aren't useful for anything other than boring games, that's a bigger waste of money. I think you're a bit behind times, 8k is the super expensive one these days while 4k is commonplace and cheap.
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1) Graphic design as a hobby or as a job?
2) I'm not sure about that corsair psu, plus I think 750w is a bit much. You should probably aim for a more efficient one.
3) It should be a lot cheaper if you buy a windows pro oem key.
4) Is the ram one 32gb stick or 2x16? You should go for 2x16.
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1) Non-paid job you can say. I do it for my own purposes – my business.
As for the rest, thank you for your opinion! Can you elaborate why 2x16 is better though?
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Dual channel, faster memory as opposed to single stick.
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As it's non-paid, then I'd say the other stuff is fine. If it were your paid job then I would've suggested going up to a Ryzen 9, but for your use Ryzen 7 seems just right. As for the gpu, I agree with Daud too, depending on how urgent this is, you could get a low end gpu, and wait till Navi & Nvidia's new GPUs are released. At the very least, you should be able to get the same 2080 super cheaper. The Windows oem PRO keys usually can be bought for 15-20 usd. You could technically also use it without activating it.
As Daud said, running ram in dual channel is better :)
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I'd advice to maybe get a lower end GPU and upgrading later if you're okay waiting for a few months since there's a rumour that Navi and Ampere might be launching next year.
Navi - AMD, Ampere - Nvidia btw
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if you can hang in there with your old gpu - nvidia is launching the rtx 3000 series in June/Juli 2020.
the rtx 2000 series will drop in price then
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Putting old GPU from laptop to desktop rarely sounds like a good idea. And when that launch happens, there will be something new coming at end of 2020, then start of 2021 etc.
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oh didn't notice he/she has a laptop.
Maybe a sibling or friend has a videocard that is not in use so OP can use that for half a year
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If you want to buy a videocard asap you might check this for example:
Difference in price is huge and the rtx 2070 super has in SOME games 10-15 fps less but is still above 60 fps.
In some other games the frame rates are almost the same with a difference of 1-3 frames per second.
You won't even notice those missing 10-15 fps in those games
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I think you went overboard with most of these (understandable if you've been stuck with laptop).
RTX 2080. If you truly need it, go ahead.
CPU. Don't know what software you're going to use, better check review site yourself (techpowerup, techspot, gamersnexus, etc)
Mobo. You could cheap out by getting a B450 like MSI's MAX series (don't need to flash BIOS to use Ryzen 3000)
Ram. 3200 speed is fine. I don't find the gains from faster speed (and thus, more expensive) to be worth it.
CPU cooler. If it's cheaper, Scythe (Mugen 5, Fuma 2) or Thermalright (True Spirit Power, Macho) is okay.
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Also: Do you have ability to connect PC to the router with cable (or will use mobile internet adapter), or you have Wi-Fi through router? You don't think about it when you have laptop, but you need a way to connect PC to the internet.
And as others wrote - think what monitor you want to have. If you want single 1080p and will not use CUDA cores that comes with 2080 - then it will be waste of money to pay that much for GPU.
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Everyone keeps ignoring that you are willing to spend more to get quality and will just suggest cheaper alternatives that will make your build obsolete faster. :)
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No point in getting 2080 if they decide to have 1080p or 60Hz monitor :)
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That's what people said about 1080 and every other expensive model before it. But suddenly there now is a point to having a 1080. My point was not going obsolete so fast and it still stands.
Shame there weren't any decent 120-144hz monitors when I bought mine, only ones with tiny resolutions or crappy colors, but now there seems to be plenty to choose from.
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Some people did try to "go cheap" when OP say they can spend more than 2k on the build. But concerns about monitor or such are valid. New on the topic users often just make up parts list, and then are surprised with question "what is your monitor".
If they'd pair 2080 with 1080p monitor, then this GPU would die years before it could not power up this resolution. So going for 2070 would be a better option. Will they pay more for G-sync monitor? How much space they have, as you'd need to sit bit further away from bigger screen. Do they play in dynamic games or strategies (Strategy like Civ V will not benefit from 120 FPS) etc.
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Of course, but if you're already spending that much on the PC, buying a cheap crappy monitor makes very little sense especially if it's meant for graphical work as well. Monitor is just one part to add to the list, not something they had already unless you want to use the laptop as one.
What if it's a 1080p240 monitor for gaming? Or 8k60 for graphic work? Or even both :)
Edit: also video editing can use a lot of GPU can't it?
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Actually I don't know yet, I have laptop right now and I need to buy monitor too.
They did not consider monitor at this point at all, and buying 120 FPS 1440 / 4K G-sync / good color representation may be more than a bit to overpay. Monitor like that can easily cost another 1k.
I think GPU is used mostly as CUDA cores, so software needs to utilize them.
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That's why instead of asking them to come up with some monitor on their own it would make more sense to suggest good ones for either case or nice compromise.
Seems so with those specs, but if that's too much then they just need to decide which of the features are most important. Or buy 2 <0.5k ones if they prefer quantity over quality.
Prices drop all the time as well, I got this one couple years ago because it was about the only one that matched what I wanted and it cost 200€+ more back then. Only minus is just 60hz, but hardly matters for me since I don't even like FPS games.
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on their own it would make more sense to suggest good ones for either case or nice compromise.
Hard to propose anything when monitor price can vary between 200 and 2000 dollars. Proposing something without even knowing their maximum budget for monitor would be a waste of time. Say we don't know if they really need true 10 bit or 8 bit or 6bit + ditchering.
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The small stuff, disregard it if you wish:
There are little differences between the R5 3700 and 3700X chips. Unless you go straight for the 3950X, just buy the non-X variants; chances are, you can overclock them the same as the X variants.- RTX 2080S seems a bit overkill, unless you are rolling in money. A 2070S has a lot better price/performance ratio.
- The PSU is nice. You can try the 650 Watt version, but going overboard there can never hurt, best case scenario is that you'll hardly ever need its fan (the most likely part to die on it).
- My SSD suggestion is actually the ADATA SX8200 Pro. Similar to the ones mentioned above but even cheaper. It is currently the king of PCIE3 SSDs.
The not-so-small stuff:
- The solid front panel of that case, despite the side air intakes, will turn it into a smoldering inferno no matter what you do. Find a case that has a mesh in the front so you can take air in fully. If you really love that Fractal Design case, get the Meshify C version; it is literally the same apart from the front panel.
- The Dark Rock Pro 4 is an excellent air cooler. It is silent and the dual-fan variant will cool down your CPU like nobody's business. However, putting that damn thing on is ridiculous torture I do not wish upon anyone. You essentially have to screw in two screws totally blindly while praying to any known deity that it stands straight and that the two otherwise suspiciously dingy little screws won't just shred apart after a year or two, because this thing is HEAVY. Also, to install it, you must have a thin Phillips-head screwdriver with a magnetic tip that is at least 170 mm long (believe it or not, something like that is not part of most PC toolkits). Without that, you are physically unable to install the cooler.
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OP should see your comment, all of your suggestions are excellent.
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There is no R7 3700, so he "must" go for the 3700X
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Strange, I would have sworn I saw a 3700 in webshops. o.O
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There aren't any non-X R7/R9 models in Zen 2 generation, yet 3700x is basically "non-X" variant to 3800x.
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Welp, disregard that one then. =D
Still, I would have sworn only that there are base variants beyond the 3600.
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I think that the 3600 MHz DDR4 memory is a bit too expensive for the minimum performance gains.
Go with 3200MHz Vengeance memories from Corsair, and switch the SSD to a 1 TB Kingston A2000 one.
I'd further go for a 650W PSU (The one you've chosen is fine)
Noctua NH-D15 has much simpler installation and oozes quality, I'd go for that one.
Depending on resolution, change from 2080S to 2070S and invest in a 2TB SSD for all your gaming needs. Skimp on that 4TB HDD for games, trust me.
Windows 10 can be bought from Ebay for literally $2, saving you a ton of money aswell.
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If you need a monitor aswell, I recommend the Acer Nitro 1440p 144Hz IPS panels. Great for the price, bought mine for 300€, in that case, go for 2080 Super.
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To replace in build
Cooler much better quality quiet and cheaper * Best Air Coolers Brand - life support free upgrade for compatibility kits for future sockets
https://allegro.pl/oferta/noctua-nh-d14-am4-ryzen-top-okazja-8752020331
PSU Cheaper much better quality 10 Years Warranty * Best PSU Brand
https://www.x-kom.pl/p/514792-zasilacz-do-komputera-seasonic-focus-gx-750w-80-plus-gold.html?utm_source=ceneo&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=ceneo_click
To reconsider
CPU change for now to Ryzen 3600 and upgrade in 2020 for 4 gen leaks showing up to 15% IPC in next gen
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I know Noctua is bestu, but those colors are awfull :joy:
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I read that people worry coating radiator with black paint may lower it's performance. Did not look for any tests though.
But black version is way better IMO.
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I recently replaced my last mechanical drive with a SSD and will never go back. Dump the Seagate and go for one or more SSD to make up for the difference in capacity. They are relatively inexpensive nowadays.
I wish I had your wallet to build this PC. My 10 year old PC should probably be retired but it still does OK for the most part.
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- OS: I'd recommend buying a cheap OEM key and investing the OS money in upgrading the HDD to a WD Black 7200rpm instead. The difference in speed is quite noticeable. I've had bad experiences with Seagate and Toshiba HDDs in the past, but never with a WD Black (YMMV).
- CPU: I'd go with an Intel instead, but that's just my preference.
- Cooler: I highly recommend a Noctua NH-D15 (just make sure it's compatible with your CPU and you have enough space in the case).
- PSU: Instead of the RM750x I'd pick the RM1000x (its cooler will hardly ever spin).
- MB: Make sure you research any possible motherboard issues before buying it. Asus is known for having quite a few issues with their motherboards, some of them quite annoying. Read a lot of reviews and see if there are common occurrences of things that might indicate hardware design faults or common failures.
- Case: Make sure it provides enough space for a good airflow and optimal placing of components.
Good luck and enjoy your new setup! ;)
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How can a Noctua be not compatible with a CPU with their lifetime warranty for new installation brackets. :)
Always nice to see people understand how PSUs work and not just recommend getting the bare minimum to save couple bucks.
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Noctua NH-D15 is mechanically incompatible with some CPUs like Ryzen Threadripper 2970WX. It's always a good practice to double check the compatibility list before buying something. As a cooler it's a beast, it kept my 6700K for the past 3 years at idle in 27-30°C, way better than or on par with many liquid coolers.
Indeed, it's rather common for people to neglect the PSU. Buying a 1000W rated model doesn't mean it consumes more but rather allows the PSU to run passively instead of having its cooler on permanently, thus increasing its lifespan. Besides that it helps with the overall system stability and also makes future upgrades very easy. It's a vital component.
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I'm going to change my laptop for a new one. This time I decided to build myself a PC. The problem is I know nothing about stuff like this. I asked a few friends to help me out. I also ask you because I want to have as wide range of opinions as possible.
In the picture you can find a proposition of a build for me. You should be aware that I am willing to pay more to get better quality but I don't want to overpay if it's not worth it. I will use PC for gaming, obviously, but also for graphic design. There's also quite high probability I will use it for editing videos.
What do you think? Any suggestions?
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