Help me buy a new PC!

The 780TI is on par with the titan :|, 970 already is better then the Titan... He would be best off getting a used 970/980/980TI from someone upping to the newest card. No point paying the early adopter fee when you can get the same performance for half the cost.

haha oh yea ill be logged in and camping on newegg,tiger and amazon the night of the 26th hitting f5 again and again if i cant get a pre-order for the 1080 lol

No it doesn't.
http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Geforce-GTX-980-Grafikkarte-259282/Tests/Test-Geforce-GTX-980-970-GM204-Maxwell-1136157/
Test when it came out. Power consumption of the Asus 970 Strix in game benchmarks 165W.

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/E-Commerce-Thema-223039/News/PCGH-Gaming-PC-Skylake-Edition-1181412/
Consumption of the whole PC (PCGH-Gaming-PC Skylake-Edition: Geforce GTX 970, Core i5-6600): 255 Watts in 3DMark

Edit: What every PC needs is a good PSU.

Technically it does not, but the additional hardware efficiencies (or lack there of depending on the hardware) will tilt the need one way or the other. That being said, I would personally exceed 500W myself for a couple of reasons. The first is to consider possible expansions of hardware or accessories down the line that will consume additional power. The next is that 500W may cut it, but it is at the bottom of the barrel for being able to support the OP's system. PSUs rarely kick out there full wattage from the get go, and the amount of juice they kick out only decreases over time. Therefore I would go higher just to have a little wiggle room.

People have been suggesting 16GB of ram for 5 years or more, with 8GB STILL being more then enough outside of special requirements. 850W PSU is really beefy for a single card setup. Unless you are getting a duel AMD card like the fury X, or SLI'ing two g.cards, you dont need that much power. Unless you HAVE the money to spare, invest in a smaller, but higher quality PSU. You can get a 1150W psu from a terrible manufacturer and end up with only a 550W effective headroom. Better off getting 8GB, saving 50-60 bucks, and getting a 650~W psu, saving another 40-60 bucks, and tossing that towards a better GPU or cooling.

My brother runs a Z170 board, i7 6700, 16GB and a standard design GTX 970 with a Bequiet 630 Watt PSU. Go for a good quality manufacturer with at least gold efficiency as that means better components were used.

Personally, if you intend to run games at moderate levels versus high or ultra; I might even consider the SSD a higher priority than the RAM. I would definitely get the RAM down the line, but the improvements in initial boot time and load times are just soooooo damn worth it with the SSD.

He meant it for the speed difference, even a 7200 Rpm HD can't compare to an SSD.

In the long run I suppose it will be better once programs start getting better optimized for using that extra RAM speed once DDR4 solely takes over DDR3. Its 10 bucks man, just go with it.

I suggest Gskill Ripjaws for the RAM thugh I'm not an expert on it..

Newer games needs around 20-60 gigs leaving aside your OS and any programmes you may install lets say that leaves you with 750 gigs to spare for me at least that is low i could easily cover that with around 15 AAA titles but i also like to play a few games each time not just one anyway i have 2 tera only for my games and latelly i find it little

i5 is powerful its not a bad choise but there is difference in gaming it may be hard to found but considering VR or a 4k monitor since there is a hint for a price drop soonish an i7 would matter a lot also i think there is a game that have an i7 as recommended and i5 as minimum not sure tho

Cooling the cpu is important and i5/7 cause they are powerful they need a good cooling device , i find watercooling the best option even tho is a bit more expensive

True, $380 USD my bad! But still it would be wise to wait a month longer and see if the upgrade is worth it or just see the 970 drop in price.

1. Well personally on a Mobo I look for a good Audio Codec, usb type C for future proofing, at least dual crossfire/SLI just in case (but I doubt I will see it as a cheaper option than buying a single new card) AND easy overclocking features. I've made my research and Asus gives you a one click CPU overclock, MSI gives you a rather easy BIOS interface and Gigabyte gives you both amazing CPU and GPU custom and preset overclocks without needing to enter the BIOS! So for a newbie like me this was the clear choice.

2. About the RAM if you can afford it I will definitely recommend a 2 x 8 GB kit, and like I said check the 3000 Mhz sticks.

3. Finally, if you want to invest into a Full Tower the Entho Pro is pretty amazing, it might get some dust inside due to poor frontal design (its biggest flaw, but not THAT serious) but it's still pretty well received. If you want to save some money check the Midtowers that I mentioned, I'm in love with the Define S due to its capabilities to house a custom water cooled build in the future (this means I could stick with the same case for a looooong time) and lots of fan positions.

For a PSU I'm looking at a EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified.

For the SSD i would suggest the Samsung 850's that 3d nand they are using is blazing fast my laptop on win 8.1 was cold booting in like 3 seconds a little slower in win 10 tho,and on a tighter budget the mushkin SSD's are a great deal my wifes had one in her computer for a few years now with no issues its the only budget SSD i would buy.

Still finishing was trying to see how the output would look like

I found a configuration I did for myself.
I tried to write it down using a table to make it look better.... then my browser crashed and since I noticed that other users had already posted the same thing I would have posted I didn't redo it.

Also talgaby was referring to the fact that I put the i7-6700k as a CPU when looking how the output with the table would have been.

I myself avoid WD's hard drives like the plague i personally have only ever had there drives fail on me were i lost all data i have had one seagate fail but i was able to recover all data as it did not completely fail like all my WD VelociRaptor drives have,i would go with a Seagate for storage usage you can get them for about the same price and are far more dependable.

Blue is the generic drive, their work horse. It is designed to run continuously under average load with average performance. It is the best for generic use, for example as a drive you download to, listen music from, keep less demanding games at.
Green is purely storage for rarely accessed files. Cheap, but in everyday use it can be slow and continuous read/write leads to those high failures I linked below (most of the failed WDs are Greens).
Red is for RAID storage and built only for that. Can be used as a generic drive, but not recommended. Primary choice for any NAS or RAID setup though.
Black is high-end enthusiast drives. Nowadays they are rather useless, funny enough. Before SSDs, they were the best choice for system/games, now they are only good if you want a generic drive with a longer warranty and a higher transfer speed (for example, if you have to create and move large backups).
There are about half a dozen more, but those are special/business level ones.
I hope this clears it up a bit. :)

Had no idea. I'd like you to explain me your definition of beating :)

+1. The GTX 1070 and 1080 are both coming out pretty soon. The cost of your GTX970 will drop.

Thanks for adding that. Sounds good, think I might just take a look at the case tonight :)

Always nice to see that I chose a case that has been tested and proven to be great. :D

well, the build is only a month old, and I haven't overclocked yet, but so far I have nothing to complain about, all running as well as it should
I guess I should probably try the auto OC just to test it. I got the k-cpu mainly for future proofing, as well as 'cause I want to play around with overclocking at some point.

Yep, since the Zen CPUs are coming out at the end of the year, there is no reason to wait if you want to build a PC now. But when the new gen GPUs are out and you are shopping for one, I seriously urge you to look at the 490s alongside the 1070s, when both are out next month. I always urge people to look at AMD since they have great cards as well, but people always buy the often overpriced NVidia cards and they are only helping NVidia become a monopoly. Always look at the benchmarks and reviews, don't decide on buying something just because it's more popular.

I'm considering the 1060Ti, just wanted to point out it may be an interesting GPU too.

I got a 750Ti (overclocked, on sale) which is very cost-effective, it does well the majority of things I want it to do, and now I can afford to wait as long as I want for all the info I want on the new gen. I'll definitely wait until 1050 and 1060 are out with aftermarket coolers and all the benchmarks, same for AMD equivalent. Maybe I'll wait to see how the 1070Ti turns out to be. I can wait as long as I need to :D

I'd then like to note, you should consider the 1x8Gb stick depending on how far you may want to upgrade the RAM in the future.

The EVGA unit would be better as long as it is not a NEXB version. Try to get something from the tier 1 or 2. PSU tier list

Get a cheaper case instead of a cheaper PSU.

For the SSD, get the Ssamsung 850 evo, you can't go wrong with that.

I got an EVGA 550 something something PSU, as far as I can tell, it might fit one 1080 XD Not completely guaranteed though, but bellow that I bet so.

Ssamsung 840 evo is really cheap for an 250 SSD. Bought mine like 1-2 years ago and it was not that expensive. Think it is one of the best for the price? I could be wrong tho.

Also if you don't mind clocking your CPU you could allways get an used Intel Core i7-2700K super cheap and clock it for some super value. If i didn't want something better i would probably buy oneas they cost close to nothing now a days.

Edit: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=2570&cmp[]=881