★ ☆ Rate this gaming PC I want to build ★ ☆

Youve already decided, you just want validation for your rather expensive purchase plan. No point in anyone "helping" you to be honest.

"Processor: 289e- Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5Ghz Box Socket 1155"

Overpaying a bit, unless you want to do engineering or video/photo editing. I would go with the i5-3570k, which has the same gaming performance. You said don't mention that, but the funny thing is, there are no newer features on that particular processor, that would help you, so newer is not better. If you went with say, the LGA 2011 chips, like the top end i7s, then you would be a lot more future proofed. You are no better off with your selection.

"Power supply: 59e- Thermaltake LitePower 700W Black"

There are better companies than Thermaltake, such as Corsair and Seasonic, just to name a couple. Since power supplies drop down in price, non stop, I would price a good one at time of sale. I would go maybe 850W as well, in case you decide to drop a second card in later.

"Optical drive: 17e- LG GH24NS95 Writer DVD 24x Negra"

Not the best you can get, but who cares most of the time. I say price at time of sale.

"HDD: 78e- Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB SATA3 64MB Recertified"

Not awful. Be careful with recertified, as it can mean different things with different people doing it. You can only bring things back so far and do so much to them. I would probably go new on a harddrive.

"SSD: 100e- A-Data XPG SX900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk"

SSDs have so much trouble if you don't get the right company and newer ones from them, I would probably avoid just throwing money at one to throw it. I like Samsung 830s and 840s more than other ones, right now. Plextor and Crucial are examples of other good companies. A lot of money per gig, so spend it wisely.

"Mem RAM: 55e- Kingston HyperX Beast DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 8GB 2X4GB CL9"

Nothing wrong with Kingston ram. I would look into Corsair, G.Skill, and Mushkin options as well, not to mention Samsung Green if you plan to overclock. Pricing at the time of sale can be alright for this.

"Video Card: 363e- Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB GDDR5"

Good choice. Probably voltage locked, but you shouldn't be playing with that anyway. MSI, Asus, and Sapphire are among other companies that have good choices. Price at the time of sale, but I like where you are going. Make sure you get the two free games.

"Mother Board: 154e- MSI Z77A-GD65"

MSI makes maybe the 3rd or 4th best motherboards. I would go Asus or Gigabyte.

"Cooler: 70e- Cooler CPU EverCool (LGA1366 / LGA775 / AMD K8 / AM2)"

I have no idea where you are going here. You will want to make sure it fits your socket. I would get the Cooler Master Hyper 212 evo if I wanted to be cheap, the Noctua DH-N14 if I didn't, but still wanted to be on air. The Corsair H series stuff is good for closed loop water cooling. I would look into this more. You will want to read more into performance.

"Case: 43e- NOX Coolbay SX Devil USB 3.0"

There are a billion different ways to go here, I would personally go Cooler Master, as they offer the best price for the quality. I have the Storm Trooper, myself. I looked at many different companies, like Corsair, Nzxt, and Xigmatek, among others.

"Wi-Fi: 25e- Asus Adaptor PCI-E WiFi 11n 300Mbps"

I would price a popular one at the time of sale. Make sure to look for those that match your needs. Like if you need dual band, get a dual band one. Match it to your router and future router choice.

"System: 85e- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bits OEM Service Pack 1"

I would price either 7 or 8 at the time of sale and get the cheapest. With a metro remover/start adder like Start8, Classic Shell, or StartIsBack, is basically the same as 7.

"Mouse: 61e- Razer Taipan 8200 DPI +5e shipping"

Well you said you know what you are getting into, so good luck. I looked at every mouse on the market back in November and picked the G700. To each their own.

"Keyboard: 69e- Razer Lycosa +shipping(5e already from mouse)"

New corsair K95 looks like it will be a beast. I have the K90.

"Monitor: 105e- Philips 226V3LSB25 V-line 21.5" LED DVI (About monitor Idk if this is good for PC but I need minimum with 1680x1050 or 1920x1080 resolution and I preffer something good)"

That video card for 21.5? Come on. 24 would be more fitting. I like Asus, Dell, Samsung, BenQ, and ViewSonic, among a few others. I would price a good one at the time of sale. Make sure to look at the features and compare. You will notice many models for each level, so you want the ones that have the better features, as the rest may be too bargain bin"ish". Usually you will find random ones priced down that are quite nice.

I give it 3 out of 5. I'd ditch the 3770k for a 3570k as they'll both hit the same clocks. With that money you can get a 24" 1920x1200 monitor. Anything smaller than that is going to be pointless for an HD7970. The recertified Seagate scares me so I'd go with a WD Black Edition even though it's going to cost a bit more. To me the 5yr warranty is worth it. You might also want a second matching SSD so you have a 256GB boot drive in RAID0. That's at your discretion as budget allows. I'd also wire into your switch/router at gigabit instead of 300 megabit wireless for latency reasons.

By the time you get the money, the new CPUs well be out. It is kind of pointless to plan a PC build so many months before buying.

for future get haswell intel core i5-4570k with compadible motherboard and AMD HD 8970. I rate your current build 7 out of 10. Switch to intel i5-3570k, Dell IPS monitor, Western Digital HD since cheap seagates are faulty, and don't know why you would want wifi when a direct connection is faster

I'd rather get a good power supply with 80+ gold certificate with 500W which is far more than you'll need and will be much better because much more efficient in the end.

Provided that game developers don't get the hold of some badass 3D alien technology, you should be good for years to come, on that beast. If you want to be totally future proof, you should make sure that your mobo and psu could handle a Crossfire of those two cards, then if you felt that some games start pushing your single card, you could simply throw in another one.

you need more juice... increase your power supply

You're not going to buy this for 2 months...get the money first before pricing up a build. Prices change a lot for components in a 2 month period.

You also say you want it to last 5 years. No PC you build today will run games at Ultra/High in 5 years if they're graphic intensive games. I set 2/3 years as a much more realistic goal.

Get the money, then it will be good.

Pick a Nvidia Graphiccard and change the 700w to a 1000w supply... Will be good then.

Are you using some pre-built website? :V

Be careful not to be too attached to this build, things change quite a lot in 2 months. If 1600e is approximately your budget, use this as a rough guideline for what kind of parts and prices to expect, also keep an eye out for sale pricing (I'm only familiar with US pricing so I don't know whether the prices listed are good or not, they seem rather expensive to me)

i7? wtf?you don't need i7 for gaming...and instead for HD Radeon 7970 get a GTX 680 or GTX 690...

Power supply sucks. Get something else, spend more. PSUs last a long time, so buy a good one now and carry it forward.

It is great apart for power supply(that brand is not too great and you need more watts anyway)ehh 8.5/10

EDIT: I saw the bottom of your post and removed the rest lol

Meh. SSD is suboptimal, those heatspreaders, PSU is meh, heatsink is meh, and meh non IPS monitor.

Build is pretty meh.. You can get much more for less money

i'm just saying that Nvidia is better than Ati, couse of PhysX

Links would help. You have wasted everyone's time with making a build and holding off on getting it. I don't know Imperial currency, but months from now, hardware prices could drop a few hundred from your updated build.
You want a 24" monitor with a native 1920X1200, not those awful black bars.
If you wait a couple more months, the Haswell is coming out and that will wreck all those processors and certainly last you for more than 5 years with overclocking.

Where did you buy this? Seems too pricey and skimpy on certain parts

I seriously don't understand why people feel the need to get a bunch of random opinions on a computer they haven't even bought yet. All you need is one opinion, your own. If you want a technical assessment, ask a professional.