Cheaper case is much better than cheaper components. I used to have an old metal PC case I got from the side of the road in someone's trash pile, that I had "customized" by cutting into it, and adding a plexiglass side panel. Good times. Just make sure that the case fits your motherboard and power supply size, and GPU too if you get a big one.
Won't answer build questions much as I'm not familiar enough to tell you if this is a well-balanced setup without research - at a glance maybe I would go for a slightly better CPU than the i5-12400F for slightly more, if budget allows. Something like the i5-12600K which I have, it has a slightly steep price difference, but if you want to last just under 10 years on one build, I'd say the CPU is pretty important.
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How cheap are we talking? A $100 case like the "Corsair 4000D Airflow" is a good balance between price and quality.
The 5800X3D and 3060Ti are good, but I'd go with 32GB of RAM (DDR4 3200 CL16 is fine) instead as most AAA games recommend that amount these days.
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I was looking at cases in $50-70 range, a $100 (The 4000D is $110 here), is a bit much for the budget haha. As for the RAM, thanks for the recommendation, I'll look into it :)
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Perhaps this would fit your bill: https://www.caseking.de/en/kolink-observatory-lite-argb-mid-tower-black-gekl-065.html
Personally all this RGB bling irritates me but as we know since Kevin Mitnick revealed the secret RGB has tangible benefits: https://eu.alienwarearena.com/ucf/show/2164427/boards/veteran-members/ForumPost/how-to-use-rgb-lighting-and-why
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Thermaltake N24 Versa, I own it, it is between your budget, if you find it in some store, and it's big enough to asure a good airflow inside (just remember, it's entry case)
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- Nothing wrong with a cheap case. The main reasons to spend more on a case are aesthetics, form factor, and airflow.
- I'm biased towards the first setup you mentioned, but either of them are fine. Get whichever one is cheaper, or has features that you want.
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How bad are cheap PC cases?
Most of the time, more expensive cases are all about build quality, component compatibility (eg. full size ATX motherboards, watercooling radiators), and extra features like included fans, USB ports in the front, good routing for cables, etc. There are cheap cases, in the $50-70 range, that would "work" just as well as $200 cases. Unless you have a specific reason to buy an expensive case, save your money on other components.
PC #1 has a great CPU and a pretty mediocre GPU. Not a bad build but eh, not very balanced. Good for MMOs, Factorio, and these types of games though. Also note that the maximum official RAM speed for Ryzen is 3200MT/s. You can get up to 3600 most of the time, but I wouldn't count on 3733 with a 5800X3D, it is more difficult for it to run faster memory and it doesn't really benefit from it anyway.
PC #2 will run most games better than #1. Although it should definitely be cheaper. The CPU alone is $150 less (obviously varies per country), and the GPU should be around the same price too, even though it's faster. Remember that for non-K CPUs you don't need a Z690 motherboard, B660 is perfectly fine and cheaper. It is a good choice anyway, but it's either slightly overpriced or PC #1 is cheaper than it should be.
Are you building this PC yourself, or buying a prebuilt?
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Hey, I'm building it myself, and you are most definitely correct about the second one being cheaper. It seems that the store I was looking at just overpriced the graphics card, looked on another store and I can get it for around a $100 cheaper :D
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Hi!
I like the second build better...I would go for a small downgrade on the graphics(6650XT) and grab 32GB RAM to future proof it.
If by some miracle the 6650XT doesnt hold the performance for the 5-8 years, the 6750XT will probably not hold it for to much after that
As for the case, just buy something you would like to see, after all you are going to have to look at the case for the next years, doesnt really matter much, as long as its well ventilated, take something like 40-50-60$, really dont overkill on the case! just DON'T cheap out on the power supply.
The CPU is fine, don't need the "K" it's your first build! Unless you need to edit videos you will not need a better CPU.
Take the money you save and buy i medium range B660 motherboard (100-120$? ) and good GOLD or better Power Supply and a good capacity M.2 SSD.
Enjoy your first build!
(Prices may vary, since the ā¬ market where I'm at is slightly different)
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Thanks for the great info! I'll probably look into investing it into a power supply as you said, don't really want one thing messing up other expensive components š
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If you don't care about looks, the only thing that matters with a case is that it is big enough to hold any components you will be using and has good enough airflow to cool them. I built the computer I am currently using a little over 10 years ago and got a NZXT Source 210 Case that was on sale and also had a $10 rebate. It only cost me $22 shipped after the rebate. I ended up removing the front flat panel piece and leaving it off because it allowed for better airflow. I also bought a cheap replacement filter meant for a window air conditioner for a few dollars and cut it down to fit in front of the 2 fans that pull air in the front of the case to keep it cleaner. I am looking to build a new computer in the next few months and will be reusing the same case.
You say you want to play AAA games for the next 5-8 years. If you are talking about playing upcoming AAA games that will be released in that time, you may want 32GB of RAM instead of 16, but I am not sure. Most current games work fine with 16GB, but I think there are a few that already work better with more. If you were going to be running upcoming AAA games at 4K, I would say you should get 32GB, but with the graphics cards you are looking at, I am assuming you will be running 1080p or 1440p. At the lower resolutions you may actually be able to get by with 16GB, but I'm not sure, it all depends on what happens with the upcoming games. You will probably be fine for a few years, but 5 years is a long time and by then I think you will definitely be running into issues with new AAA games and 16GB of RAM.
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3 different comments, about getting more RAM. Well, I guess I'll definitely need to look into 32GB then :D Thanks for the help and also great deal on that case!
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Most motherboards support 4 sticks of RAM. You could start with 2 8GB sticks now and then see what happens in the future. If you decide you want more, you can add another 2 8GB sticks to get 32GB. Most people recommend sticking with 2 sticks of DDR5 because it is new and 4 sticks can cause some issues, but 4 sticks of DDR4 should be fine.
If you upgrade to 4 sticks in the future, for the best chance of not running into stability issues, try to buy the exact same make and model of RAM to match whatever you currently buy. If you can't find it or it is too expensive, you can try a different type, just make sure it has the same specs. Not just the same speed, but also the timings because all 4 sticks will need to run at the same settings.
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dude, no. You don't need more than 16GB of RAM. And you wont for a while. Current gen console have 16GB. That means most games, especially AAA that release on consoles anyway, don't even care about more. Also system memory doesn't matter that much for 4k. You need GPU memory for that as there's more textures to load or rather, bigger size textures and they go into GPU mem, not system RAM.
besides, op said they want to play in low/mid details with 30 FPS so 32 GB of RAM is an overkill even for future proofing! Even though thing might start coming with 32GB as "recommended" most will be happy with lower ammount for their "minimum requirements". And worst case scenario op can just add an 8GB stick in 3 or 4 years when they'll probably be cheaper and op will, hopefully, have more disposable cash...
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I know higher resolutions need more VRAM for the textures, but I thought I remember seeing benchmarks where the system memory goes up as well. Either way, I think there has been some games released recently that are starting to take advantage of more than 16GB of system memory and 16GB for modern AAA games seem like more like a requirement. The issue is that they want to play upcoming AAA games released in the next 5-8 years. I said that I think they will be fine with 16GB for a few years, but 5 years is a long time and I think they will start running into issues by then with 16. Then after they posted a comment saying that they would consider 32, I replied saying that they could start with 16 and upgrade to 32 in the future if they feel they need it.
Edit: So, I didn't say they need 32, just that I don't think 16 will be enough in 5 years for AAA games, but I am not sure because "it all depends on what happens with the upcoming games". I can't predict the future, but suspect 16 will not be enough in 5 years which is why I responded saying that they could get 16 now and upgrade later depending on what happens.
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tbh idk. I don't really follow AAAs that closely, but Atomic Heart lists 8 as min, Like a Dragon: Ishin! lists 8 as both min and recommended, and the upcoming Resident Evil 4 remake also puts 8 as minimum. So even if there are games out there that can go beyond 16 they are far and few between and most is still fine with 8 at the low end. So unless we see some major paradigm shift in gaming in the next few years I'm willing to bet that no games will come out that will require more than 16GB as the minimum in the next 10 years.
And with the, no doubt well intentioned, comments about *maybe needing 32GB somewhere down the line** you scared the op into doubling the RAM at the cost of frequency, which is much more impactfull on the performance, especially at that ammounts, while they still opt for a lower-mid range CPU and a mid range GPU! at this config dropping RAM for some more meaningfull upgrade is way more reasonable.
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I think you are getting something wrong. There is a difference between needed to start and available for use. Windows really got good in hiding what it needs/can use, while outsourcing the need to other components, the page file for example, which will pretty much be always active if you run the system with 16GB.
While I am currently only typing here, I have a total usage of roughly 38GB Ram utilized by windows. Partially this is only stored data that is not active atm, but is cached to be accessible any time I require it, without any further access to hard drive, ssd or web. To maybe help it with an easier picture, if you game one game for a long time, you will have a lot of data processed. The bare minimum to get the game playable is 8gb. The difference is simple, while you will be loading every data set over and over again, accessing the SSD, processing it with the CPU and make it active accessible Memory usage, I will pretty much have all the data already stored within the cached memory, ready to access instantly. This will result, is better min FPS and less stutter and this will also result in faster load times. This absolutely has nothing to do with how much memory is actively used while gaming and displayed in any of those benchmark charts. The magic trick here is memory utilization... if you got memory... you can and actually will use it!
16gb feels like taking a bath in a sink instead of the bathtub.
Maybe another interesting fact. Turning off the Windows Page File on a 32GB mini ITX system results in -4CĀ° on the nvme drive, at least in my rig.
Turning on RAPID on a Samsung SATA III QLC SSD to use your free resources available, enables a memory area, where the frequently accessed data of the drive is precached as Dram Cache. In short, access a Sata III SSD data with the speed of the memory, while not even turning the SSD waking from idle - to be fair, it works a little different, but that is basically where it sums up. This is kind of the better version of Hybrid Drives like firecuda or the raptor, works with the same idea. At least I hope you get my point here.
And yes, of course 16GB of 3600 memory will perform faster than 3200. It's just 16GB where 8GB is already used by windows itself. If you transport one passenger cart with an ICE and one with a normal train, obviously the ICE will be way faster the more times it needs to drive. Now simply add one additional passenger cart to the normal one and let them do the same task. Which one will get done more? This is not about the amount of Memory that needs to be active to do things, this is about the accessibility of the data, while maintaining high speeds without any unnecessary stops in between or additional runs.
Since we are talking about a price oriented build, the tip to get 32gb of 3200mhz is totally fine and I +1 that.
If you build a balanced system, with enough memory to make actually use of the system at a functional level, you will barely notice a difference in gaming between 3600 and 3200mhz. Unless you don't have tasks that will require the cpu to work at it's maximum, you will most likely not even be able to tell the difference between a 3200 and 3600, at all. But I grantee you, you will notice a difference in response-, load time and smoothness, if you actually got enough memory. This will not be as much as from 8 to 16, but you will notice. This is not only for games but general usage as well. How much time do you need to open a program or several at the same time... Refresh times of data...
If I had to go back to 16gb for gaming by law... I would cry out loud and probably switch to console and I am not joking here.
Hopefully this helps a bit to understand, where all those different opinions collide. You can totally run a system with 16gb even a 7950X3D, if you wish to....is it a good idea?... your choice.
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dude, tl;dr. try and learn to compress your point to a few lines. most people won't bother reading a thousand word essay on the interwebs...
I have a total usage of roughly 38GB Ram
that's your fault, sanitise your PC usage. or windows' but than fault is on you again for using windows...
besides - I've skimmed through your message and most of it seems fine in theory but is bs in practice. As I've said once here sure, more ram is better, but again in theory when all else is irrelevant. in real world there are other factors at play and we can't just salm an infinite RAM stick into every machine. You like transport analogies? Here's one - when all you need is to drive 10km to work and back everyday in city traffic, sure you can buy a McLaren F1 for that. It'll cost you a few million dollars for the car and you'll burn like 60 to 100 liters of fuel a month ( i"ll let you calculate the cost of that on your own based on your local fuel prices). Or you can buy a used Toyota Aygo for like $15k and burn like 20 liters of gas monthly. Now, will either of the solutions achieve the goal to get you to work and back home? Yes. Is one pointlesly expensive, simply unreasonable and gives you no benefit over the other aside from bragging rights and feeling cool? Also, yes. It's exactly like RAM situation.
If I had to go back to 16gb for gaming by law... I would cry out loud and probably switch to console and I am not joking here.
which also has 16GB RAM, less functionality and no upgradeability. GG WP. You'd be graet at 'shooting yourself in the foot' competition with attitude like that.
Besides, op's got their PC already so it's all irrelevant now.
Oh, and for the record - I run 10GB of RAM in my PC and I'm all bloody fine
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Well, thx for the passive aggressive answer, I guess. Sry for the tl, sadly your skimming wasn't sufficient to get the points. Your analogy exactly implied, what I tried to explain. At least you got that down the right way.
I took Windows as example, since most new users go that route, but no worries, Linux, Unix, Mac OS, Chrome OS... same issue. Sadly, at the time the OP edited the post, I have already been wasting my time with you.
things you ignore:
- ram compression
- swapping - virtual memory
- latency
- hardware wearout - more specific would be disk thrashing
- access speeds
- transfer rate
things to check:
- memory channel
- memory bandwidth.
Wanna see me bragging? My ***** core 2 duo had and has more ram installed, for reasons you don't get. My first SSD just got 12 years old and is still far from being exhausted... I wonder why.
Since my initial post was in good intention, I wanna keep it that way and still give you some hints. No worries, you don't need to bother and answer this one. Figure it out on your own or don't bother at all and learn it the hard way. I really don't care and even less after such a reaction.
You know the most hilarious part of your post? Me going to a console and shooting my foot, while still having more ram... I bet I will be all bloody fine than.
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It's fine to use a cheap PC Case.
Check if there a reviews online for ones you are looking at. There are cheap cases and there are no-name cases. Good ventilation is important, RGB-bling not so much. A glass front may look nice but is often just a hindrance for good ventilation.
Some may include case fans which are noisy and will need replacing, sooner or later. If you factor in the cost of 2-3 good 120mm fans it may be better to get a slightly more expensive case in the first place that includes them. Also check wether it has the USB or audio connectors that you need. Adding them later with adapters etc will just cost money again.
Don't try to skimp on the PSU. Go for at least a Gold rating. Not necessarily for power efficiency reasons but because of better quality parts being used. Go for a manufacturer and model that has a long warranty period.
A bad PSU can be loud or even kill the rest of your PC if it fails or doesn't protect properly.
Personally off the top of my head without doing much research I would look at Sharkoon cases and a Bequiet PSU. Possbily also a case from Bequiet dependant on prices and fans included. Sometimes case/PSU bundles are on offer.
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a) How bad are cheap PC cases?
They are great. And by that I mean I go for cheap ones always as the price ones have too many places where they expect you to mount additional computer fans and if you won't they will get more dust inside then the cheap ones that have more plastic and less holes in them. Also the cheap ones don't have all that additional RGB flashing colors everywhere and while some people like them I find them useless and pointless and even detrimental while playing or watching movies at night. Also most of the times the cheap ones cost 50% less then the RGB ones.
The most important things are for the PC case to have good ventilation and enough room to not only fit your graphic card but also to live at least 2 cm of free room between the graphic card and PC sace inside when you close it. Trust me on this - I checked similar cases with the same parts and the difference was 10 Celsius degree.
You don't want your PC case to be hot like an oven ;)
b) Also since your graphic card needs 750W try to get a good quality 1000W PSU 80+ Gold. It will probably cost 50-100% more than 750W but it is like an investment for many years - you put it in and have to never worry about it for next 5-7 years. You always want to have some W of power spare and long time ago I read that PSU operate best while they are under or close to 80% work load and your graphic card will be the part that will use the most W so 1000W 80+ Gold will be solid for many years and will use 800W or less when playing and much less when watching movies etc.
c) Intel i5-12400F
AMD RX 6750 XT
32GB 3200MHz CL16 DDR4 RAM
This is a great solid setup right now especially with PC parts starting to have normal costs again not the old inflated ones.
Also buy yourself a solid motherboard and M.2 disk - 1TB should costs somehwere between 250-400 PLN and it will be the only disk you will need for your system and games. Windows 10 should put you on desktop in a few seconds and games loading times will be nearly non existing - sometimes I even have no time to read the tips that developers put on the loading screens before they disappear so fast because of M.2 speed.
d) With this graphic card you will not play 4K but probably 1080p (1920x1080). You will want to invest in a good 120Mz or 144Hz monitor - that way you will be able to play most games in 1080p with 90-144FPS.
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Do not over spend for future proofing better is make small upgrades over time, i5-12400F and R5 5600 have comparable performance but second one allows for 5800x 3d upgrade or even 16 core CPU who knows in what direction game requirements go in future.
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First one allows for i5-13600K upgrade which on average can be a bit faster than the 5800X3D - depending on the games chosen - because not all games profit from the extra cache of the 5800X3D. But yeah in terms of core count, Intel relies on little cores - which are better in apps than in gaming. So the maximum upgrade for Intel is 8 big cores + 16 little ones.
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About the expensive cases:
I have a "be quiet 802". Not a cheap case, but:
In winter when the window is open, when it's about 0+5 degrees outside, it starts to crunch/squeak. After closing the window, it crunches again.
The main thing is the build quality, not the price.
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Cheap cases are fine, but they may lack some QoL features, like dust filters, or fan hubs, or possibly have more annoying cable management. Some more expensive cases also come with fans, which depending what the fans are, can save you money buying some. But in the end, none of that will make or break your build, it really comes down to what you want. Me personally, I'm using a Phanteks P600S, love the look and features, but it was expensive.
The changed build you have is better, the extra VRAM and RAM will be more useful down the line. Tho unless you're getting the 6750 XT for basically the same price as the 6700 XT, maybe not worth it. If there are 6700 XT's for cheaper, they might be the better option.
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Looked into the 6700XT prices out of curiosity and it's only ~$20 cheaper on one model, and on all others significantly more expensive here haha. I wonder what causes such price disparity.
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Well they're all below MSRP right now, trying to unload stock before the new cards come out I guess, with pricing varying based on stock. $20 price difference isn't a big deal, so 6750 XT worth it then. For me there was a $50 difference, plus additional $40 shipping costs so I stuck with the 6700 XT. Wish I had waited slightly longer so I woulda got The Last Of Us free with it though.
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Since I'm blacklisted, and probably truly evil, my only tip is to get a black case, with red rgb lights, that pulses to a ominous WOOAAM WOOAAM sound.
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Oh, wow. Why so much RAM? You don't need 32GBs for just gaming. Nor should you need that much for a while maybe even ever if you're gonna upgrade in 5 years. Besides RAM is the easiest to upgrade down the line, so you should definetly go easy and that and put some budget into more important stuff. What mobo and PSU are you getting for that? These are often overlooked components but they are as important as CPU and GPU. What about storage? it can also affect your overall experiece with your new machine. As for the case it's probably the one componet you can cheap out on the most, but getting a total bottom of the barrel junkyard special does come with it's drawbacks...
You setup from no2. looks pretty nice. What budget are you actually working with?
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Mate I see you're actually PL. Add me on steam if you want some actual, market and region adequate tips
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Hey, a lot of peeps recommended 32GB, it's not much more expensive than 16GB, and not something that's going to need an upgrade for some time so I thought it was a worthwhile change from 16GB. The motherboard is an Asus Prime B660M-A WiFi, and the PSU is an ENDORFY Supremo FM5 750W 80 Plus Gold. As for storage, a 1TB M.2 SSD and a 1TB HDD.
As for the budget, it's around 5500zÅ. Shot you a fr :)
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32GB although not needed for most games right now, does have some situations where it's beneficial. Two recent situations for me as an example, are... Star Citizen, due to it still being Alpha state with bad optimization, and a lot of tasks being put on players as appose to servers, eats ram, and the 32GB can give a much smoother frame rate. Another example is Cities Skylines, when modding, adding tons of new buildings, decorations, etc... It starts taking up a lot of RAM, I was up to 26GB usage last time I modded it. There is also the case of if you multi task as well, running browsers, music, discord, etc etc while gaming. Though yes 16GB you'd still be able to do it all, 32GB will still provide a smoother experience. Odds are it's going to become more common to need over 16GB in the next 2-3 years, can't be sure, but better safe than sorry.
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I did say I would go for 32GB but @Devirk is also right probably more than everyone that says 32GB, you will definitly not need the 32GB. So why is everyone saying 32 GB? In my opinion, just because it's cheaper to buy a pack of 4x8 or 2X16, instead of buying separared in 2-4 year, You can do 2x16 and buy a B660 with only 2 slots of memory.
If you go with a 1X16 pack now, you will have to buy a separate single 16X stick, that SHOULD be more expensive then buyin a pack o 2 sticks.
EDIT:As I typed, and went to check on prices. There's not much diference on a 1x stick pack to a 2x stick (at least in my market). So, the 16GB route is more than viable a money saver :)
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The only downside I can think of going 2x8GB now, and buying 2x8GB if needed later (instead of buying 2x16GB now) is that big CPU air cooler may "overhang" on RAM slots. But that's specific for MOBO / CPU cooler combination. If they go for something like NH-U12S Redux it will not be a problem, but some CPU coolers can be massive.
I myself use 16GB, play, have discord, firefox, mail, sometimes record game I play etc. in background and never have problem. You won't run computations at the same time as playing a game to eat up RAM, and games that have memory leaks, or load a lot of mods (like Skyrim) are exceptions.
And price of RAM can be volatile. Now DDR4 is cheap, but have some "flood" in semi conductor facotory + DDR4 will be phased out by DDR5 and it will no longer be cheap.
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DDR4 will be phased out by DDR5 and it will no longer be cheap.
then it'll be cheap on second hand market. and given that RAM is basically the easiest component to upgrade in a PC, and probably the least prone to failure one it's the best candidate to cheap out on while building the system with the intention to upgrade it later!
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I think you will lose performance running a single 16GB stick instead of two 8GB sticks. CPUs have 2 separate channels that it can send data back and forth with the memory. Using 1 stick of memory will only use 1 of those channels while using 2 sticks will use both. This will double the amount of data that can be sent between the CPU and memory. This is why people use 2 or 4 sticks of memory instead of 1 or 3.
If you don't plan on using more than 32GB and your motherboard supports 4 sticks of memory, I would definitely go with 2 8GB sticks now with the ability to add another 2 later. I don't know how big of a performance difference there would be, but it is literally double the bandwidth, so I would think it would make a big difference in some games that might need that bandwidth.
Edit: I just want to clarify that I am talking about DDR4 memory here since that is what the OP is buying. DDR5 has dual channel on a single stick, so you can run 1 stick without as much of a performance penalty. You can still gain performance by running 2 sticks of DDR5 over 1 because DDR5 is two 32 bit channels instead of 1 64 bit channel on DDR4. Also, as of right now, 2 sticks of DDR5 is optimal and you can lose performance or run into issues by running 4. I haven't really looked into this, so I am not sure if this can be fixed with BIOS updates or if it is a memory controller issue that will need to wait for the next generation of CPUs to get fixed.
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I think y'all are missing one key point - it's supposed to be low to mid tier gaming with 30FPS on a budget. Sure, more is better and more future proof, but WTF you're gonna do with sht ton of RAM while your CPU is pegged at 100% and your GPU struggles to spew any new frames of the video?
Building on a budget is a bit of a balancing act and a game of tradeoffs. And when it comes to trading off you should prioritise elements that are hardest to upgrade and most durable - like CPU and mobo, and give up a little on things that can be easily upgraded down the line - like RAM or quickly getting obsolete like GPUs...
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3060Ti and 6750XT are not budget cards, but middle tier. And surely not 30 FPS cards.
I have AMD 5600 bought in 2020 and can play anything in 80 - 100FPS in FHD. Sure it's not always ultra when devs don't optimize game properly, but I never had dips below 60FSP in medium settings so far. Both cards from OP post are double performance of mine, and double the price
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ah, yes, I meant that it's supposed to be 30FPS in the future. Sure it's pretty beefy rn but as the OP said - they don't aim for the high end in 5 years, they just want to hold a steady 30 on low to mid settings
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I would buy the Ryzen, take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xekpWrSQ-T8
7950X >> US$699 MSRP
5800X3D >> US$449 MSRP
(Only for reference, you can get it for less right now).
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Btw the Ryzen 7 7800X3D will launch in April. But that's on the more expensive AM5 platform. On the other hand, AM5 is more "future proof" than AM4.
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How bad are cheap PC cases?
Anyone worth their salt will tell you not to cheap out on the case. You don't need a top of the line case, but don't go budget.
Much like your monitor and PSU, your case can be used through many upgrade cycles, and will only need to be replaced when a new form factor hits the market. A cheap case means flimsy panels and shoddy construction, which can make assembling or getting into your PC an absolute nightmare. Screw holes that strip easily, sharp edges, broken plastic pieces, and rattling panels are among the most common problems with a cheap case.
A solid case with thicker panels is necessary to keep your mobo from flexing under the weight of other components (i.e. most modern GPUs), and a good case will come with much better fans and even fan filters, resulting in a much quieter, cooler, and cleaner PC. A proper case will be much easier to build in, result in fewer bandaged fingers or damaged components, and help extend the life of your components.
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Finding your personal build:
First thing to figure out is the resolution and refresh rate you wanna play at. If you don't get this as starting point, you will most likely have a hard time getting the parts straight without overspending or messing up a setup.
If all you want is a nice gaming rig, hat is capable of playing on a 1080P Monitor or TV with 60- 100HZ, this is a totally different setup as if you wanna go to 144HZ 1440P - 4k shooter setup.
For example, a 5600g+ gtx1070 is doing perfectly fine hitting 60FPS nailed on almost any game on my 1080p TV, while being undervolted to the absolute maximum. I am looking at a maximum power draw of 80W -140W during gaming, TV included.
Gaming on the bigger workstation at 3440x1440 100HZ starts at 180W and is maxing out a about 500W using a 3900x + RTX 3070.
So where I am getting at is, that not only the power consumption will increase, but also the necessity in higher tier parts, while playing the exact same game. You really don't need a high end GPU to have a enjoyable gaming time.
Regarding the 5800X3D. I like the approach of the CPU, but unless you don't pair it with some really high end GPU, the benefits don't add up as most people think. This is a CPU that requires certain conditions to achieve the benefits. If you you pair the 5800X3D with a low or mid tear GPU, you will have a hard time to "not" max out the GPU, which is exactly where this CPU won't do anything else than any other CPU for less than half the price. It is true that this CPU is a powerhouse, which can achieve higher framerate than some other high tier CPU's, but those usually use the top end GPU'S. like 3090 ti, 4090. So in a 720P test, you will most likely not see a 4090 been maxed out by any CPU on the market. Looking at 1440p and 4K you might notice not that much of a difference in the CPU results, since the GPU is going to be maxed out rather fast. That is, if the game actually does even support that 3D Cache feature at all.
It is a CPU that will be able to withstand a lot of GPU generation, especially if you go low or mid tear, but going for a rather budget oriented build, this probably will benefit you several years in the future and not now. Since we can't look into the future, there is no telling if this approach or a more core based approach, hence the 5900X or similar, would make more sense. I don't see a point in getting this CPU with an expectation to be really good in future. Not going to buy a sports car because they might build a highway here in 5 years - wasted potential, if you can only drive at speeds within a restrictions.
The 12400F is a really nice CPU, I like it because of its efficiency, sadly due the price of the chip and Intel motherboard, at least in my region, it would take me more than 6 years of 4h gaming every day, to only compensate the price difference over an AM4 setup. Looking at the platform itself I don't really see any reason to go with Intel, since the rest of the lineups power draw increases significantly the higher tier you go. So instead of getting a cheap upgrade a few years in the future, you will most likely have to get a new PC.
longtime usage of PC parts:
Possible, but not advisable. There is more to it than just the raw capability of the hardware - hardware issues, driver compatibility, hardware based exploits. Technical based issues and feature implemented/supported. For example, a 1080ti is still usable today... mostly... if it is not a RTX required game that won't start or run without it.
There is a limit to what you can future proof and with the current fast changing architectures, there won't be any guarantee that even the high end parts will hold up that long. You can even get it the other way around, your stuff is too good... there are actually older games out there, that won't even start, if you got a CPU with more than 8 cores, Technomancer would be one example.
If all you do is gaming, simply go for well balanced and priced system that does have either headroom to grow and/or some reserves to use. In terms of price to performance, I personally would still go with an AM4 system. Since you are going tor an entire new build, AM5 might be more advisable, since you can hopefully expect it to be active for 3-5 years. You might get a decent upgrade on your CPU, when am5 hits end of life, without having to go overboard and getting a entirely new platform. AM5 is more about the following costs, than being the most efficient choice here.
Set yourself a resolution, a target for a reasonable framerate.
1080p
As cheapest solution, I would go with a 5600 + 6600 or 6600 XT
As a more GPU headroom with 5600 + 6700 XT.
CPU and GPU headroom, 5700X + 6700XT.
Future oriented + upgrade path, AM5 7600 + 6700XT.
NVIDIA is valid as well, still would get AMD here unless you already have a monitor that is gsync only or are into broadcasting and encoding, where NVIDIA really shines. Pure gaming at lower resolutions with lower end cards favors AMD a bit. Solid rasterisation and good enough results with RSR or FSR even on higher resolutions. I do like RTX but in the lower tier GPU's the fps trade of is to big, to make that count.
Just to make one thing clear, I don't favor any brand for the brand itself. Have been using Intel for almost 20 years, but for me, it currently makes no sense to go that route, with that kind of power draw and upgrades, that require a new motherboard almost every time. There are benefits for software as well as hardware, but as long as you don't require those exact things, I simply don't see any reason to choose Intel over Amd at this point.
Regarding the case, cheap is not necessarily bad, but there are benefits in spending more. Quality of the material used, accessibility, support for replacement parts, build quality itself.
Best to get is something that offers you a good airflow (mesh front advised), since this is really getting important. You would want to look for something that is easy to build in and easy to clean. Other than that, it is mainly visuals.
So something like ENDORFY Signum 300 Solid as cheap option or a Lian Li LANCOOL 215 will both do the job in cooling. Yet, the 215 is way better build quality and has a ton of quality of life features.
For the Ram... get "at least" 32GB. If you ever want to do more than one game, you will hit the ram limit pretty quit.
SSD features like RAPID from Samsung also benefit from more ram... that's why it is called DRAM CACHE.
Enough Ram also results in less strain on the SSD ,since you won't utilize the Windows Page File that much or simply can turn it off.
I do game with my wife, but she prefers some other games than I do. When I am already gaming and she wants to play a little bit together, I prefer leaving my game open in background, to be able to do stuff in breaks... show me how you manage that with 16GB, Let's say there are games that progress over a longer period of time... let's say X3 or something like that. You will have to run it for quite some time to progress, but if I only got 16GB in the system, I don't really see myself doing something else while this is running. Just for the lols... there are Minecraft Mod packs that require 12GB of Ram allocation to even start, now do the math.
I actually thought we would have been past that discussion of memory utilization, where people compare current systems with the needs of 2014 systems and those "Pro Gamers" that run a 5900X with 16GB playing Fortnite, because it is enough. Seriously... that Ram per core Ratio is worse than a 2004 Systems based on Pentium 4. I do get the point, that you can run systems in pretty low memory thx to Windows making use of Page Files and some other clever tricks to hide it, even 8gb can still run games, but you will always limit yourself to a certain degree, where the PC tells to alter your behavior. Let's say taking a short game break while doing research for studies... having 50 Web pages open on Chrome and starting an AAA game...won't happen...you have to close the Browser first.
Simple comparison: Instead of spending 160ā¬ on 16gb 3600 cl14 ram, you could also get 64gb 3200 cl16 for 144ā¬. Guess what I am buying...
Just give that system some damn Memory already to properly work, no matter what you do with it.
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Everything depends on budget you have and what you want to do with PC. Probably you want to play games as i see on setups and not just L.O.L.
I am fan of AMD/Ryzen but you do not tell a motherboard for both setups, which is for my opinion very important.
Prefer for both setups RTX (although that i am fan of AMD).
For PC case, as is your first build, do not spend a lot of money.
Of course you will see on future upgrades that Case is very important component. But for now a middle cheap case could be gave a little more money for other components.
About disk(s)? did you have an idea how to continue on your setup?
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I would likely not suggest AMD, unless you wanna have high temps in your house and maybe coil whine if you get a sh or even a new gpu. but besides that everything is okay and looks stable
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EDIT 2:
Everything has been bought, thanks for the help <3
In the end I went with the same setup, but swapped the 6750XT for the RTX3070. And all this waiting allowed me to get a better case for cheaper, since on Monday a suprise deal popped up :D, so I went with the Genesis Irid 505F.
EDIT:
After reading through the comments (TY <3) here's the final build that I've landed on.
Intel i5-12400F
AMD RX 6750 XT
32GB 3200MHz CL16 DDR4 RAM
OP:
Hey all, finally scrounged up enough money to build my first PC and I've got 3 main questions on my mind:
How bad are cheap PC cases? Is it something that's fine to get, just with a little worse quality than the expensive ones, or is it something that it's better to invest more money into to get a better one? With my current budget it's either a cheaper case or cheaper components.
Is this a good setup? I want something that will let me play AAA games for at least the next 5-8 years, I don't mind if it's on lower graphics, just want something that will last me a long time and can at least run future games at low/medium graphics and min. 30fps.
Here's the setup I'm currently considering:
AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D
RTX 3060Ti
16GB 3733MHz DDR4 RAM
There's also another setup I'm considering, the prices are similar, and the performance seems similar too from what I've researched but is it better or worse than the setup I'm considering now?
It's this:
Intel i5-12400F
AMD RX 6750 XT
Same RAM
Thanks in advance, and sorry if these are really basic questions <3
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