When you've got a budget of 12-1500, never ever get a "store bought" PC, always build a custom one. As far as custom heat sinks, they'll stay in place as long as they're secured correctly.
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Yeah my last one was a Dell, turns out the system uses about 350W worth of power at boot, and the PSU was a 380W.
Which works fine for the first few years, but then suddenly it gets harder to boot - and eventually fails. As PSU's have a max which degrades over time . :/
Seems they build the system a bit too tight within the budget.
Ah well, figure i'd build my own this time around.
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but isnt i7 better than i5
.. or is it not worth the money?
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Not sure if they still sell Non-OEM Windows.
Retail stores in my country no longer sell Non-OEM Windows anymore. And I remember if you buy from Windows store online, they are all OEM license for consumer. You can only get Non-OEM for volume license, usually meant for VMs.
Fortunately for most cases, unless you're upgrading the motherboard, an OEM Windows will work fine. I've upgraded CPU, GPU, harddisks, RAM. Nothing affects my OEM Win 7 nor 8.1 license. I can't guarantee for Win 10 though.
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Normally a non-OEM license will cost more than an OEM license, sometimes the difference is quite big for the higher versions. Right now, in Amazon, Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit full version is $60 more expensive than OEM version.
So, you gotta weight the pro and cons.
Buy an OEM license, and use the difference to get a way better mobo?
Or get a crappier mobo but don't have to worry about rebuying a new Windows license. For now.
$60 extra can get you a very good upgrade for mobo.
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Other than privacy issue, forced windows updates, auto-remove software against your will, and stealing your bandwidth. Windows 10 seems good.
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Give this a try (Windows 10 When I want it)
http://win10wiwi.com/
It uninstalls all the Win 10 nagware patches from 7.
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get a i7 6700, gtx970 or above, 240gb ssd, 1tb hdd, 8gb ram, gx900(or others), antec neoeco ii 550w or cooler master's, and enjoy
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Last year I bought a Revolt 777 (prebuilt pc) from http://www.ibuypower.com/ and am pleased.
You can always DIY cheaper.
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What do you think of this? http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/4zbtVn
Boy building PCs in the EU is more expensive than the US :O. I used your PSU in the build, and I was thinking you could probably bring your old optical drive from your current computer into this one (unless you're DYING to get a new one, haha). When I do a build I usually go over budget though, but I just can't resist high end hardware XD. I had to refrain from putting a PCI SSD in this build, haha. If you're thinking about upgrading your monitor I would look at a 144hz display. Some people might not think it's a big deal, but personally I think they're awesome. Especially if you play FPS or games that you pan the camera around in like Civilization, other RTS, and maybe even Terraria!
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For the most part, a good build. But…
The 212 EVO has been surpassed by at least two other smaller and cheaper coolers for years now. It's outdated, plain and simple.
Gigabyte Z170 mobos have a terrible rate of not working, not recognising RAM, and if you ever dare to put an M.2 SSD in them, don't even try to use them as boot drives. Also, it seems you cannot even use them unless you clear the CMOS when they arrive.
The Corsair CX series, and the C-series in general, is in the "eh, only if you really cannot make any other component cheaper" category of "barely recommended" range. Their R-series is among the top 5 or so though.
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This is a fairly decent list:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/faq/id-2478892/alternatives-hyper-212-evo-budget-cooling.html
My personal pick is the Raijintek Themis, because it is slim enough to no obstruct DIMM slots on an ATX board, but it is not the only one with this size on that list.
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Hah,. like a few hours after i did the research for the pc,. my mousewheel broke down... >_>
Seems i'm looking for a mouse as well. Bother...
2 things:
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I opened it up, and there was a huge wad of dust in there.
While cleaning that out, i had to remove the footpads, which worked ok-ish, but not perfectly.
I fear it's old age mostly. when you try to scroll down now it still clicks the mid mouse very easily, and scrolling is very difficult.
I went ahead and grabbed a M500, as it seems closest to my current one - and it was only 29 euros.
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I just (ok maybe 2-3 monts before now) built a new PC with G402 and my friend bought G302. Both are awesome!
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Intel Core i5-6600k
Now, many people will tell you to get i7-6700k. Slight problem: unless you edit videos, use GB-sized databases, or stream for a living, the difference between an i5 and a hyper-threaded i7 will be exactly zero in performance and 30% in price. The only reason you see better fps rates in games is because the i7-6700 has a higher stock clock rate, but if you overclock an i5-6600K tot he same frequency, it will give you the exact same performance for a lot less money. And speaking of cooling…
For its cooler, get Raijintek Themis. Again, you may hear 212 EVO this, 212 EVO that, but that is due to people being used to just recommending that for years. The Themis is somewhat smaller (fits into the standard mid-towers that let 165 mm clearance) and has better cooling for lower price and noise range.
NVidia GTX 980 Ti.
If too expensive, then GTX 970.
If still too expensive, AMD takes over and the AMD R9 380X beats the GTX 960 both in price and in performance.
If still too expensive, then a GTX 750 Ti.
For power supply, Corsair RMx or RMi, or EVGA Supernova. There are a few other decent picks, but these are in the affordable price ranges. A 500 W should be enough for another 7-10 years.
For motherboard, ASUS or ASRock. Make sure the chipset is at least H170, but Z170 is infinitely better, especially if this rig should live another 7 years. The only real difference is how much would you invest in 4 years into a new system disk and how many HDDs+SSDs+internal optical drives you have now. If their total is above 4, then get an ASUS mobo. If less, then get an ASrock Extreme3, Extreme4, Extreme6, Gaming K4, or Gaming K6 (whichever is cheap enough).
For system drive, a Samsung 850 EVO. If you need a separate gaming SSD, it may be something else, but the EVO 850 currently is just unmatched. A PCI-E NVMe 950 Pro would be better, but the performance increase it brings over the 850 EVO is almost untanglible in real-world scenarios, yet it costs almost thrice as much.
For memory, Corsair, if you can afford it. Just make sure you don't fall into the rookie trap all wannabe PC builders do, and watch only the pretty frequency numbers to make your decision. The actual performance of the memory is measured by dividing the latency (the CLx number) with the frequency: the lower the number, the better the stick. So a CL12 2400 MHz stick will outperform a CL17 3200 MHz one, and will also cost like half.
The good thing about Corsair is that their memory is easy to overclock as they have nice cooling. The second best option, which is also usually a lot cheaper, is the HyperX series from Kingston.
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Actually I made a quick list anyway. Here you go. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/whCJvK
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I built myself this rig at the start of this week. http://imgur.com/7HeXEIS
Is running really well and sort of in your budget.
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My computer was 4-5 years old, so i built a new one yesterday.
It is this one : http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZztD6h
Not sure that it will help you as it is missing the psu, case, and hard drives.
I got them for around €1300 in France.
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You may find a good store built PC but there is always a big reason for the price of it, they either sell it cheap because there is a bottleneck or they make look like a good deal with things like card readers and such. Anyhow it is worth looking around for a good store build PC because you may find a good deal but most of the time you will be better by building it alone.
Don't worry about the weight of the cooler because the thing should stay solid even if it is a 2kg beast which I doubt you will buy. I have an arctic freezer extreme rev2 which is 608g and is giant (torque..) and it stays solid on my poor microatx intel mobo. Just make sure that you check dimensions. I didn't check it and if the cooler was 0.5cm higher it wouldn't find under plate and if it was 0.5 wider it wouldn't fit over rams :D (I got lucky tho).
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About the list you gave, looks quite good already. I'd change some things with that budget though.
Hope this is useful to you! Good luck with the PC build.
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I got a new PC recently with a similar budget of max 1400-1500, including Windows 10, and also live in The Netherlands so prices are comparable. This is what I ended up with:
i5-6500 (i7 is overkill for gaming and I'm not planning to overclock.. if you're planning to overclock get i5-6600k)
8gb memory (yes you can get 16gb but not really necessary for gaming right now and it's easy to add 8gb later)
Nvidia GTX 980 (yes not the best deal price/quality but I didn't have enough budget to get the 980 Ti and I had more than enough room to get something better than a 970)
Cooler Master Hyper 412S (it's reaaaally quiet even when playing high end games)
MSI B150M Bazooka (once again, no interest in overclocking and this is a cheap, decent motherboard)
Corsair 550W PSU (not that great, but gives more than enough power)
Also for SSD/HDD it's personal preference I guess.. I got 250gb SSD and a big HDD and I just keep the games I'm currently playing on the SSD and switch them to the HDD once I'm done with them and might want to play them again in the future..
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I recommend taking look at http://www.cpubenchmark.net/ for individual parts (those are not just CPUs as URL might suggest) . What I like the most are their "best value" charts. It basically takes the score of the benchmark software they use and divides it by price. There you can for example see how terrible value GTX 980 Ti has, how much more you pay for those few extra percents of additional performance.
By the way, even though Intel Xeons are ranked pretty high, I suggest you just ignore those as they aren't really made for gaming. Lot of games put a huge strain on one CPU core and Xeons depend on distributing the tasks among cores.
That said, I guess it's a good idea to compare results with some game benchmark site.
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Mind if I shoot an invite? Been thinking to build one for myself with a budget of 1k€.
I already have some part picked on a configuration site just have couple of doubts if I'm maybe investing a lot in something and not caring about others
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I won't go into specification recommendations here. But here are some of the things most PC-builder might overlook.
If you can still find cheap Windows 8 license, get those instead of a Win 10 license. You could potentially save quite some bucks since Microsoft is still giving free upgrades now.
If you can, invest more on getting a good PSU and casing. Don't just put pour all your money on specs and use the leftovers for these. A good PSU and casing can last almost forever, unlike a CPU and GPU that you are gonna upgrade them sooner or later anyway. Things to consider when getting a casing - tower size, cooling, number of USB ports, harddisk rack space, and USB outlets.
Also, invest on getting a good enough DVD-drive. Most people do not need a DVD drive nowadays, but having one definitely is convenient. For instance, most hardware drivers now still come with a DVD installation disk. You can use it too when you buy a retail game that come with an installation disk, to save some bandwidth. Also, use it to burn backup disks.
Invest on getting a second HDD for backup purpose too. Get a free backup software and do regular backup.
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I'm building one now. I'm going to be doing some graphics editing stuff (Blender/UE4 engine) so i7 is how I'm going to go, but as some have pointed out i5 may be fine at lower cost if you're not doing heavy graphics editing jobs. The PC's I've been looking at on PC Part Picker are coming in around 1300-1400, so it's about in your price range.
Here's what I'm looking at
i7 4790K and mobo
16G or 32G DDR3 RAM (Higher Ram amounts are only useful for loading large files like UE4 levels, so 8-16G will work for
Samsung EVO 850 250 or 500 SDD
WD 1 TB Blue HDD
Nvidia GTX 970 video - most seem to say MSI or Gigabyte are preferred
Corsair RM 650 power supply. (for this system a 550W or 600W power supply might be more optimal for best efficiency)
Win 10 and Case
any extras like DVD and/or Wifi card if needed.
Some thoughts on the choices.
Intel CPU - The i7 choice is due primarily to graphics editing programs I'll be using. I'd consider an i5 if not for that.
Nvidia GTX 970. Seems pretty good bang-for-buck card right now, and runs at good efficiency. I don't like loud/hot PC's so efficiency matters to me here. I'd consider a 960 if not for the graphics editing I'm going to be doing. (I did not want to go w/ the Radeon cards because I prefer the efficiency of Nvidia, and I understand for the programs I'll be running, there are less problem w/ Nvidia drivers).
The Corsair RM650 Power supply should provide stable and quality power. Putting this much cash into the system, I don't want to have a bad power supply causing problems. (I've had multiple PC's where cheap power supplies caused problems - often difficult to diagnose - and it's not worth the headache to me. I'm not sure if the 650W is too much for best efficiency, but it's my placeholder for now)
I'll probably go with a Samsung EVO 250 and regular WD 1TB Blue HDD, but if I didn't need that much storage I might simply opt for a 500G SSD.
Anyhow, most of the builds I put together around this template tend to come out around $1300-1400 USD, and this is a pretty strong machine.
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Was yours the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 970? I'd seen alot of folks rate that one their favorite. thanks,
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ok, thanks for the warning. I don't want loud. I'll be sure to read reviews w/ whatever I choose. Probably the MSI though unless I get a deal.
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Only get the 4790 if you plan to replace the entire mobo+CPU+RAM combo within 3 years. If you want it to last and serious about rendering, get a little more money and get an i7-6700K, a Z170 mobo, and one with DDR4 support. If you just settle on gaming, a 6500 or a 6600(K) should be enough, even on a H170 (or B150 if you want it cheap) chipset.
The chipset will let you have enough bandwidth to expand the rig in any way you want, including possible later M.2 NVMe SSDs, and the DDR4 RAMs are very slowly but surely reaching the performance level of DDR3, so they are bound to surpass it (or, if you are rich enough, they already do at 3.2GHz, if you can get a CL13 stick up to that point).
If you consider the GTX 960, then you really should go for AMD. The R9 380X is cheaper, stronger, same power. If you are adamant on NVidia, then get the 970. The manufacturer is actually more or less irrelevant: EVGA's cards are capable of the same performance and at release they cost like almost a 100 dollars less. Your only basis of choice should be port arrangement if you want to use 2+ monitors.
For the PSU, get the RMi or RMx line instead. The RM uses inferior interior and it will run on the possibility of just dying slightly over 5 years or even less. It's simply put not built to last. I would advise the RMx line unless you really want to monitor your PSU's output in the OS (the difference is that RMi has a digital monitoring port, but this hardly justifies the higher price).
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Most posts on the UE4 boards seem to indicate 4790k w/ 970gpu is where sweet spot is currently for development. I can always spend more, but at a certain point I just have to say enough. I'm already above what I wanted to spend with the builds I'm looking at.
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Oh yes, that combo is excellent. I was trying to put an emphasis on that it is excellent now, but that CPU is in a very awkward situation: it is the last of the socket LGA-1150 ones, and all motherboards (well, maybe with a very few expensive exceptions) are DDR3 ones: two technologies that are currently in the process of getting phased out for being too old. So if you go this route, you have to accept that you probably won't be able to upgrade in 2-3 years, and you'll also have to miss out new technologies like M.2 SSDs (the best chipset, Z87 supports only PCIE 2.0, and a paltry 8 lanes, so you couldn't even get an NVMe SSD on a PCIE expansion card work at full capacity, not to mention that using it would halve the PCIE lanes for the GPU).
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This is mine what is more than enough for the actual games (@1440p/high, antialiasing off because you don't need it at this resolution)
I like overclocking, so I've bought AMD...
:: 27" BenQ GW2765HT LED IPS Monitor ::
:: FX-8320 @ 4600MHz AM3+ CPU ::
:: Alpenföhn Nordwand CPAF-009 CPU Cooler::
+Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 Blood Red 120mm Fan x 2 (Front and Back)
:: MSI 990FXA-GAMING AM3+ Motherboard ::
:: MSI GTX 970 Twin Frozer 4GB OC ::
:: 16GB Kingston HyperX Black Fury 1900MHz 10CL (1T) ::
:: ADATA 120GB SSD SATA6 ::
:: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB HDD SATA6 ::
:: EVGA Supernova NEX650G 650W Gold PSU ::
:: Nanoxia Deep Silence 2 PC Case ::
+Nanoxia Deep Silence 120mm Case Fans x 2 (Front)
+Nanoxia Deep Silence 140mm Case Fan (Bottom)
+Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 140mm Case Black Fan x 2 (Above)
+Alpenföhn Blue Led Fan 120mm (Back)
:: A4Tech Bloody B120 Keyboard ::
:: Logitech MX518 Gaming Mouse ::
:: Razer eXactMat X Control ::
:: SteelSeries Siberia V2 Headset Green::
:: Windows 10 Home Premium Operation System ::
My CPU cooler is about 1kg with two fans and there is no problem for my motherboard.
GTX 970 is very good VGA card. You will not be disappointed with it, but you need a good enough CPU. If you like Intel you should buy 3.5-3.8ghz i5/i7 CPU.
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My PC works well as it should be, and it is absolute cold and silent, stable everytime.The SSD came from my last case, the memory is good enough at the moment. I never had any problem because I got GTX for my AMD cpu, but my next PC is gonna be Intel & GTX.Thanks anyway.
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Mind if I shoot you an invite on steam? I'm thinking about building one for myself and have some doubts. It is cool for you?
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William already cleared everything up for me this is what I've ended up with http://pcpartpicker.com/p/hdrvzy
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It's a solid build. I wouldn't like to build in that case, but that's totally subjective. The only thing I don't really like is the PSu, it is on the bottom list of recommended power supply lines, but it's not a bad one at least. If you have a HDD for storage and add another 8-16 GB memory next year, you should be fairly happy with this one for at least 4-5 years.
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If I may say you are better if you buy one 8GB memory modul and not 2x4GB.
+less power consuption
+more stability
+easy upgrade to 16GB
ps
I guess there is no preceptible difference betwen 3000MHz and 3200MHz. And the red/black color looks better than blue for MSI gaming motherboard and VGA card.
Do not forget to check your motherboard compatibility with the chosen RAM, and be sure it is not too high for the CPU cooler.
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More than one user already told me that dual channel would be better than singular?
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Thought you meant a single 8gb. I'll consider it even tho its almost twice as expensive =)
Thanks for the input
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Yes I did. If I am in your place I would buy a single 8GB memory module for same price then another one later. But this is up to you. :)
I found something interesting for you in this context:
RAM Performance Benchmark: Single-Channel vs. Dual-Channel - Does It Matter?
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Basically no difference unless there's encoding in the mix. Well I use an engineering drawing program that kind of loads the pc. I don't know what part it's costing the most but when I try to move the 3D model around it freezes a bit, considering this case it would help?
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AutoCAD and currently I've a slimbook from acer. Its an aspire if I'm correct
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I think AutoCAD needs especially memory (4GB minimum and 8GB is recommended or more) for well running + good CPU. (3.0 GHz+ Intel® Xeon E5 or newer)
System requirements for AutoCAD 2016
The Core i5 6600K is very good on single-core performance, that is good choice for you.
Support for multi-core processors with AutoCAD
The VGA is secondary, but a GTX 970 just be good.
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Thanks for the info. Just a question, when they mention multi threading it has to do with the new i7 technology right?
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You are welcome.
Operating System - Multi-Threading / What is Thread?
easier:
If the software supports multi core CPU (two or more core) that is multi-threaded software. If it doesn't - like AutoCAD - that is single-threaded software. It is not only Intel or AMD technology. Every processor can do that with minimum two cores, but it depends from the software.
Actually AutoCad is "half multi-threaded", because it can use the second core of the CPU:
"Due to the lack of multi-threading, AutoCAD is not capable of using more than 50% of the CPU on a dual-core computer, so there is no significant performance gain over a single CPU computer except for the areas noted above."
Check this picture, there is the first core 100% and the second one is maximum 50% in use:
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I don't. :)
Look at that, the manufacturer also recommends this:
AMD Radeon Pro Duo up to 51 Percent Faster than GeForce GTX TITAN Z with Core i7-5960X processor. So this is basically normal story.
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i wanted to get a 970 but i am delaying my purchase bacause of pascal gpus which are coming this year. It annoys me to wait though:/
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Pascal is probably coming in 3 months at most, I hope. I'd wait for it as well.
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What motherboard you have in old rig ?
Because i7 920 can be OC to around 4+ Ghz on decent Air coolers, after OC this will enough for next 2-3years.
Ram 6Gb is enough for now - Upgrading to 12GB will be enough for many years :)
Add to this 970 ,new HDD + SSD and you no need anything more to buy for good gaming experience.
OS Win 10 :)
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IIRC the early i5/i7 CPU/Boards had 3 memory channels, so 3*2GB in his case.
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Time to build a new pc.
My current one is over 7 years old and it's starting to show signs of age (black artifacts, crashes, freezes, slow startup,. chrome complaining vista is no longer supported, etc)
I'm thinking of going around about 1200-1500 e as a budget.
Has anyone recently made their own PC, or do you have any actual good experiences with a store bought PC?
For the sake of images and background I put the full details of my intended setup here:
Also, does anyone have any experience with non stock CPU cooler weight?
I'm a bit unsure about the strength of the case+motherboard in regards to keeping a 1 kilo cooler suspended in midair.
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